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The screen looks to have track ball damage. That will always be there now. Recapping isnt bad. Make sure you clean cap goo off with isopropyl 99% before new caps

You also have to make sure the cpu card is actually “in”. I thought my pismo was dead. Someone suggested pressing harder on cpu card where sockets meet. So i did, but was scared to break it. It worked. The cards have to mesh properly and be connected firmly or no signs of life too

Well, lcs taken apart and cleaned. So now the rebuild i guess. The orings leaked and this was a single pump version so no lcs was “safe” as far as i am concerned. Not sure if i want this route. Still tempted to air cool it.

That stinks. I can send you a different interconnect board to try. Try hitting both reset and programmer buttons on back at same time and hold 10 seconds Then power on. Probably wont help, but can’t hurt. I would also wash the boards is isopropyl 99% and scrub connectors with soft toothbrush...

So, i found out my quad lcs was starting to leak. I didnt really want a g5 project right now, but my two 2.3 dual core psu died so I thought go 3 for 3? Anyways, lcs is pulled. I decided to re thermal paste logic board as well. I did notice some caps were leaky, Great!, more work. I dont want to...

yeah let us know. I have three working 180c. They are my favourite pb of the 68030 era, along with the 170.

ok, so I went over tech by androda hybrid check and all check out except my q1. The resistance seems off. My voltage at q16 pin 2 is 5.2volts. Power manager resistance is fine. So maybe q1 is burnt out? Also, the he says the fuse should have zero resistance or no connection. I am getting 0.5ohms...

ok, so I get 5v at source always on, and 5v gate sys pwr, but 0 at the drain powered on.

Unfortunately I don’t know how to check if something is held in reset or high or low. Still trying to figure that out. I do have a multi meter etc.

Yeah, try the daughter card first. Then see. I had a 165c show up without a daughter card, so i had to use my spare otherwise i could have sent that to you. You located in Canada?

So, replaced power manager with a known working one, no difference. So my guess is now the hybrid or something else. The power manager that was on here works, as i put it on a powerbook 100 logic board and she fired right up. So the chip wasnt bad. Have a hybrid on order. Any other thoughts...

No battery corrosion? Also check the battery on the interconnect board. My take on the 180c and i have done 5 now, is the interconnect cable can get damaged and cause weird issues. Without having another one to swap out and try it is hard to determine if it is that. That also goes for the...

Any ideA if fuse is fast or slow blow? I cant tell and there is no continuity. Thanks!

Trying to resurrect two dual core 2.3. Both bad psu. So annoying as one did work. Do these look burnt or hot? Caps look fine. Hate to recap whole thing to not fix it

If the l2 cache dimm is on its own card, pull it. Sometimes dead cache cards can cause this exact behaviour

I have had to remove that sound chip on most of my iici projects due to cap leakage and broken connections from legs to pads, or broken traces etc

I will see if i can remember. Do a quick check of your caps and soldering. Maybe reflow if necessary. I believe the caps by the floppy port or in that area were the ones.

I had issues around memory chips and sound chips. Also, check around egret chip. Might have to do some cleaning, or remove chips with hot air to clean pads / legs from corrosion. Recapping only part of restoration. If your unit works after recap and nothing else your lucky;)

Yeah well, the little noise gives me hope lol. Cpu is warm, just not sure if / how to seat it better than i am? Whats responsible for chime? Cpu card? Or rom on logic board?

Good to know, thanks! Gives me hope at least. Did your hard drive spin up when you were having similar issues, or was it just dead but with warm cpu with no chime / video?