Search results

Bad heads or head not clamping enough the disk. Are the heads clean ? Can you swap heads (from one not working drive to another)

Have you tried connecting the external drive directly to the internal cable for a test ?

I have not worked on a TAM often, but capacitors are not always the magic solution. Are you sure you are getting all voltages required from the power supply ? Try removing any card present (if you have) remove the HD and try booting with a basic setup. If no improvement you can have a look at...

Yes no issue if you only remove the drive.

I tested my 5300 this week-end and the screen is worse than the one posted by Indibil. I think i have a spare but not a 100% sure... the 5300 has been kept in a steady temperature place for many years,... and the HD is bad as well.

there is so many battery bombed boards around, easy to find a good case if you are looking for one...

Still thinking you have got a broken trace, probably appeared after the recap, or a nasty sound chip. The sound chip is nearby two 47µf capacitors

Yes, i will say the same thing, never seen that before but probabaly an issue with the board, cable or component on the LB. you cannot complain, you have a second drive for free.

This is typical from bad caps and low voltage. Check for the 5 volt rail at the HD Molex. Don’t much you can do until caps have not been removed.

Hi, to be honest a $100 was far too expensive, $50 is not the biggest deal of the year but is decent. A mouse is required, but the keyboard is not mandatory and $30 is a fair price.

The Classic is happy with 4,85 volts in the 5 volt rail, below at best zebra bars with the shaky screen. Analog boards are all bad until caps have been replaced (and not only, because those boards are cheaply made)

5 volt rail is a bit low…try to crank it up to 4,8 There is a potentiometer on the side of the AB. Try reflowing the solder joints at the usual places.

I will check voltages, you are getting a clear chime, so not bad, most AB are dead and not delivering any. Can be a bad solder joint, don’t see any hot spot either. But those two RIFA caps should go.

I agree, too far gone, not easy and won’t be cheap if you are not skilled yourself. The other issue is that when the LB is bad with that amount of rust and damage, chances are the floppy and hard drive will be ruined as well.

Hi first, i will clean the board again, i can see a lot of dark spots in the DFAC legs (which is the Sound Chip) flip the card and look for broken traces in the other side of the board.. been there https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/classic-ii-no-sound…-solved.40921/ if nothing obvious...

Big pads were probably used at the factory for testing purposes, you can skip any work to them. I will try with basic capacitors for tests, then once up and running will go with good ones.

Yes maybe, have you tried the hair dryer trick (heating the capacitors slowly to see if the voltage increase)

I agree, something is written in the black casing, probably a clue here

Probably a broken trace issue in the adb side as the adb connector is just a pass through from one side to another.

is the reset switch doing something ? Can be stuck also.