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Absolutely it's possible. I'm running an LCIII in that manner (ZuluSCSI rather than Blue, but Asante SC interface works the same way).

Thanks for the clarification. But, on the bright side, I've run into a fair number of PALs with intact security fuses. One can always hope.

Has anyone thrown the PLD against a DuPAL?

+1 on a vinegar soak! I was able to restore a horribly battery-bombed Lisa 2/5 by starting with a 2-day soak of the back plane. Connectors were fuzzy green on the way in, but bright and shiny on the way out.

The Mouser part is an 84-pin PLCC socket and thus should be the correct replacement part. It's incredibly easy to yank out via barrels when attempting to desolder the old part as a unit. If I were you I'd consider crushing the old socket with pliers to the point where you can pull the pins...

Doesn't one of the 68k Mac diagnostic suites check PRAM? I know I've seen it recently, but cannot recall which application I was running.

You've piqued my curiousity! When my bench is clear I'll see what I can dial in with the RGB-HDMI 300A. It should be able to do better than that.

In my experience, the RGB-HDMI 300A will sync to just about anything with enough twiddling. Absolutely the best bargain in vintage computer scan converters (I have 5 of them). FYI: The built-in preset save/restore is only for output resolution. You need an attached PC running their control...

Thanks! Might want a couple of photos on your Ko-fi page.

FIXED: Problem was a rotted -5V contact on the power supply molex plug. Looked fine from the outside and measured continuity when a test lead was stuck in... Simple, but ran me around in circles for a bit.

I think I need a bit of help in troubleshooting my LC475. I'm scratching my head a bit over the schematic on page 13. A scope on pins 18 (or 19) of the DFAC chip shows that PWM is being generated when I trigger a notification. It reads a steady square wave under quiet conditions that then...

This should work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/296681016042

Rats. I'll have to put on the thinking cap and fabricate something.

I just ran into the same issue. An extra-tall IBM 128M simm leans way over the CPU and prevents installation of a heat sink. There are a couple of vendors who offer a standard-height 128M part at reasonable prices (~ 30-40 USD) and I'll probably go in that direction.

I believe it's a metric thread. Try Fastenal or McMaster-Carr.

I like the rails on your pre-heater. I bought an Aoyue unit last year that has only a set of short, narrow bars to hold the PCB making it a true PITA to use. Were those rails OEM or third-party?

@Tashtari - Just sitting down to solder together my phone net to DB9 kit and realized the orientation and offset (9 lines to 10 pin) at the IDC end of the cable is not specified. Can you clarify? Pin 1 of the IDC connector must be a no-connect, which just adds to the confusion.

There is at least one very good video that walks through the process of disassembling and cleaning 3.5" Sony drives. It's really quite simple if you take your time. I've probably done a dozen to this point with no problems or unintended damage.

Mac-sync-inator is a great gadget. I have perhaps a half-dozen passive adapters and the sync-inator was the only device that gave me a display from a newly acquired IIci.

My theory is simple corrosion from exposure to humidity. There may be exposed copper where the winding leads come through the cone. It does seem particular to SEs as none of my older or newer compact Macs ever had speaker issues.