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Its just amazing what holds up and what doesn't after 35 years...

In my experience (with retrobriting), the opposite has been true. Also, I am experimenting with UV protectant recommended by another member here to see if the re-yellowing of a retrobrited piece can be delayed or prevented. Since the re-yellowing takes years when the retrobriting is performed...

Congrats on getting the new IWII and on getting it working. Thanks for also posting the writeup of your roller repair in detail - this is going into my bookmarked 68kmla pages! One item I did not see mentioned, was whether or not you had removed the (usually) degraded foam on the top lid (the...

I wasn't going to comment on this one, but yes there is something inherently perfect about the original Mac (in spite of its shortcomings) and they do command a premium for an original, un-upgraded one, because more people want one than there are available examples. Some folks might luck into...

Me too - the following chips and nearby traces have more corrosion than they should after recapping. A thorough cleaning is in order and far less invasive than removing the chips - I would clean it first (you can always lift the chips following the cleaning, if you have ongoing issues)...

I found a couple similar to this on both an original 512 and also on an upgrade board from this era.

The one attached to the NuBus card appears to be used for data acquisition - a better shot of the card would help determine its use for sure, and hopefully the drives still work, since they would most likely have drivers for the cards. In fact, quite a bit of software might exist on these...

I almost went this route - I had gotten some of the required parts and came close to sending an order off for the boards, but then I scored an original vintage one at an acceptable price. I'm pretty sure that I got a better price on mine than they had previously been going for, because the neck...

I suspect it was a reasonable number, since in1992 (the date of the manual?) the 240MB drive was towards the upper end of what people would have had. From the May 1992 MacUser. Kind of like when they would quote a maximum RAM size based on the memory sticks available at that point in time.

It should have a load placed on it and I think there was another trick that was required (switch in the case, which needs to be triggered) I recall. It depends on the IO board (whether there is a battery and also whether someone was smart enough to remove it if it was there) - it would have...

Definitely - remove the battery from the IO board, remove the PSU and check its voltages, re-cap if needed, check the CRT for issues, check for additional corrosion and address as needed. Possibly - replace the switches in the keyboard.

No modern components at all !?!?! How did you recap the motherboards (polymer?,tantalums?), and if needed, their power supplies? What is your plan for when the hard drives fail, or the drive gear and or caps in your floppy drive? I don't want to devolve the conversation, and for the longest...

Maybe @maceffects would know?

I got it for around $75 - the others that I found at the time (last October/November), were around 120+shipping.

From his picture at the beginning of the thread, this is the HMMU - sort of a low-budget alternative to the PMMU that they put in all theMac IIs without a PMMU. Here is a thread explaining... https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/how-do-i-know-if-my-macintosh-ii-has-a-pmmu-or-hmmu.38060/...

This worked for me when I had a similar problem on an old Compaq PC - its good to be reminded of the options for troubleshooting!

I see re-capping in your future, starting with the power supply (likely the cause of the your 'no sign's of life' issue) and because all the LC model's caps are leaking now, even if there are no overt signs. Obviously you will want to check the voltages on the PSU, before you begin to either...

just ...wow!

I'll bet the lead-free solder works well for this, let us know how this turns out.