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I tried it, but it G12 is actually 2 chips on this board, the original one and the other one "piggybacked" - soldered on as a part of a upgrade. I tried another one on the top of those 2 and it didn't help. So now I removed the memory upgrades. I am missing one 74F253N (location G13), so I...

Anyone? I would like to save at least the logic board :)

I put the logic board into my Plus and it showed: 028000 error code. If I am not mistaken, this means the chip in location G12 is bad. But that board is DIY upgraded which error code might mean something different Any suggestions? Or should I just remove the memory upgrades and go from then?

Hi, time to bump this thread, as I am going through my unfinished projects. And I think it is about the time to finish this one :) Anyone knows if the logic board from the newer machines fit into the A1052 case? Thanks!

I would be better (and cheaper) off if I just get a working 512K. For the repair of that one I would need to get: - floppy drive and its bracket + cable - new flyback transformer or a working analog board - repair the logic board (possible, but difficult) - new casing if I can't make this one...

What I can remember from almost 2 years ago: The small ones (yellow) were 3.3uF at 35V. I replaced those with 3.3uF at 50V ceramic multilayer ones. The larger ones were 100uF at 16 or 25V. YMMV Regards

Yes, something similar happened on Philips CRT that I worked on. The foam that was used to secure the yoke failed and turned into some kind of corrosive goo. I tried to repair the shorted deflection coils, but was unable to.

I forgot how much I paid for it, but it was too much back then. I think around $60, and that was in 2014. I stripped the paint, but the paint stripper somehow weakened the plastics so it broke on few spots on the top grille, which I glued back, but I think it would now need another coat of paint...

I will be putting my Mac Plus on my bench next week (for exchange of the RIFAs), and I would try to also get this logic board going. As I said, last time I think it only showed sad mac. So diagnosing such an upgraded board would probably not be easy. I am leaning towards removing the upgrades...

Too bad the machine itself is in extremely bad shape - painted exterior, non-original CRT (Philips unit), missing floppy drive, etc

Hi, I had a 512K in the attic for the last 10 years. It has a bad analog board and the mainboard was upgraded to some point. The machine also had some Hyperdrive parts there (like the PSU, fan and interface board that plugs over the 68000). Also the mainboard displayed a sad mac and didn't work...

As far as my knowledge goes, the non-backlit Portables must use 7V 1.5A power supply which is designed to soft limit the current at 1.5 amps. So if the computer will try to take more than 1.5A, the power supply will lower the voltage to keep it happy. So when the current will hit 1.5A, the...

I got this quite nice looking PB 190 few months ago. The seller did say it would probably need a recap of the LCD as the image is changing contrast all the time and is very temperature dependant. I was sceptical about this as those machines were supposed to have "good" caps in them and not the...

I would also go and replace capacitor C15 in some near future. But use a different one, use a foil style cap 3.9uF 100V. It is described on page 159-160 of the Larry Pina's book The Dead Mac Scrolls.

Just a quick question, I have an SE/30 that I think has a tube on its weak side. Can anyone confirm that? The focus is not as sharp, also I can make edges quite sharp, but the center will be bit soft and vice versa. Also I noticed that the top and bottom corners are bowed a bit in, hard to...

Hi, I just fixed one Lisa 2/5 that had screen jumping vertically. The jumping became worse as the machine warmed up. Main culprits were three electrolytic capacitors on the analog board that have leaked and corroded the surrounding areas. These are three 16V 10uF capacitors that were purple in...

I just repaired (recapped and cleaned the PCB) a PowerBook 170 Power Adapter M5140Z (APS-20E). Needed all of the brown ELNA capacitor replaced. 47uF 50V, 82uF 16V, 180uF 16V and 1200uF 16V were all leaking in the bottom. I was lucky as the corrosion around the caps was still minimal, so I...

There was one capacitor on LC III models that was installed backwards from the factory. If you used ceramic capacitors, it wont matter, however if you used tantalum that capacitor may go eventually in smoke.  See this...

These Mitsubishi drives are very reliable, even with old capacitors in place, however do replace the capacitors, even if you do not see any leakage. Most of the drives had no signs of leakage around the capacitors, but when removed, there was almost always a small pool of electrolyte underneath...

Huh, no replies? Well, I am still on a lookup for a suitable logic board for my PB G4.