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In theory (my own theory) you should be able to use a filastruder kit to recycle platinum / powerbook grey / whatever color plastic parts from damaged / throw-away Mac cases so we have matching ABS filament to print new parts...

I wonder why SMD electrolytics are working better than ceramics here. Has anybody tried tantalum caps on the display? I might go back and re-do one of mine (I've done five displays now) with SMD cans to see the difference.

Ah, I think I went running with the old file - no problem. I'll probably be needing more of these so there's opportunity for more testing!

Alright, I got the PrintrBot Jr in my office working... nobody's used it in over a year! It's printing off the tray right now, but it's not fast and I've got a 7hr time estimate so probably won't get to see it until tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes!

Yeah, I agree with that. I don't know if there is any good replacement for a Mac SE with 4MB of RAM. All those old games that boot straight from floppy like Sub Battle Simulator and Dark Castle are dodgy on anything newer and definitely won't boot on a Quadra (or even a Mac IIci)

Alright so that GND shield is not the issue. There is a blue bulb "thingy" sticking out of the PCB and it was fastened to the cells with what looks like hot glue. I reckon that's the thermistor. Battery recondition is the one, it's in the Apple Extras folder with 7.6 and later, I think. Once I...

I said this a few years and dozens of Macs ago...

Hi TechKnight, It's NiMH, I looked for cells that are as close to the original spec as possible in this case. I think the thermistor is actually on the backside of that PCB and it makes contact with a flat heat sensor built into the case of the battery that in turn makes contact with all the...

Ah... lol ... it's coincidental, I guess. The cells came that color and I used the yellow masking tape to tape the cells together and the black electrical tape to replace the black sticky foam that was insulating the end caps before the re-cell. I was able to pull the case open without damaging...

Thanks, that makes sense. It was definitely getting hot and I kept plugging it in and unplugging it to test things out and see how long it would run on battery... but I wonder if it's some dodgy connection in there. I ordered some new fuses from Newark and I'll re-assemble it with solder instead...

I wish I had known this before I ordered the factory bracket for my SE/30! I have a 330mb SCSI drive fastened to the bracket with tape because the holes do not line up - at first I thought I had a prototype or reject.

I rebuilt this powerbook 1400c battery and it was working beautifully until suddenly it wasn't. I tested everything and narrowed it down to this mysterious component no longer conducting electricity... any ideas what this is, can I find a replacement? Can I just cut this out and patch with wire...

I think it is A/UX 3.0 ... also a dual display setup, but it looks like there are command shells open on the second display to Nedry's right.

Yeah I agree that's a great practice board :) I'd still give it a good bath and scrub and see what's under all that crud... it is *probably* gone for good but it probably also looks much worse than it really is. The funny thing is those caps look in decent shape.

I suspect it's very common for sellers to open these up and remove the SCSI HD and, in the process, also remove the CRT board from the CRT - then they leave this disconnected when they put it all back together. I've seen this before, more often than I've seen exploded batteries (!) but I would...

Yeah that is a bit much. Mine will be like that if I don't get the contrast adjusted just right... and the contrast drifts, probably because the caps on the inverter board have dried out a bit. I guess I could try and sort that out right now, I'm not doing anything productive today. I should...

I've replaced all the caps in my display(s) and the passive-matrix still has issues with grayscale... let me know if you have better luck! One thing I have not done is recap the inverter board.

The Quadra 700 is noticeably faster in my experience than the IIfx. Also the Quadra 700 main logic board was made with tantalum capacitors, so issues related to leaking caps are pretty much non-existent - although later models of IIfx also had mostly tantalum caps. If you can only have one, get...

I took a closer look at the Apple ROM SIMM and noticed the contacts were looking pretty dull. I wiped them down real good with some IPA and now it's working fine! P.S. - A/UX doesn't boot with ROM-inator II

About 1/4 of the floppy drives in my collection do this and I've narrowed down to (almost certainly) alignment issues. If only that were easier to repair!