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If you want to use your Mac Portable on a PSU only: that's fine. I prefer to keep my collection as original as possible, so that's with a working battery. Let's be realistic: what's 44USD for a working battery ? You pay 5x times that much for a replacement Lithium-ion battery for a new laptop...

Just rebuild the battery and you take no risk at all. It's the easiest battery I know from a laptop to rebuild. In the end, why would you take any risk if you can perfectly buy the original cells brand new from the Manufacturer ? You need 3x of these...

You probably don't want to hear this but you have to replace the SMD capacitors in the LCD panel. As for the 140 LCD: do you see the backlight coming on ? If you have a known good LCD cable and the backlight comes one but without image, the LCD will likely work again after replacing the...

The problem is that the pins on sockets for Mac logic boards are straight while on the accelerator board they are angled 90°. I have a MicroMac board like this that has 4x expansion sockets on it: 2x at the front of the PCB and 2x at the back. The sockets we have seen at Dontronicss or Jameco...

You'll need good luck to find a replacement active matrix LCD that doesn't have the problem. It's a very common problem, not only for the Powerbook 170 but also for other models with an early active matrix LCD like the 180, duo 250, 280, 540,... Your best option would be that you actually can...

Are you sure it's a 800K floppy drive instead of a 400K one ? The 800K drives don't suffer from stiction as bad as the 400K drives do. However during the years, probably a large amount of dust has accumulated in the drive and the old grease on the mechanism that holds that floppy disc can...

No or very low sound is typical for bad capacitors. The board has to be completely recapped. It's a 22 year old Mac Portable so it's normal the capacitors need to be replaced. Look for green dirt on the PCB near the small SMD radial capacitors. It's also perfectly possible to you don't see...

I would definately not spend 100$ on a refurbished drive. You should be able to find a 2 or 4GB 50-pin SCSI drive for less than 50$ on Ebay or from a fellow collector here. If I were you, I would go for the SSD option 8-)

According to the technical specs Apple published in a Developer note on the Classic, with 440 mah you are clearly overloading the 12 volts rail. Inrush current to spin-up the drive will be even higher, probably more than 1A, so the hard drive you have isn't probably going to work or not for...

Have you recapped the Analog board as well ? Keep in mind that the PSU of the Classic is not very strong, so when choosing a large HDD: look at the power consumption, especially the spin-up power requirements are important. As for partitioning it: there's a universial Boot Disk with OS 7.6 on...

Can anyone find replacement 30-pin sockets for an SE/30 or Mac IIsi for example ? These are straight with a spacing of 10mm between 2 rows. I have been looking for hours and wasn't able to find them anywhere. Dontronics and Jameco sell sockets but the spacing is wrong so they don't fit on the...

If he created a short, it must be on the logic board. He resoldered the J4 socket on the Analog board, which is far away from the mouse connector. The only thing I can think of is a power issue: if the mouse gets no power, then it won't move where the clicker is just a contact that needs no...

That's normal: the connector has 5 pins on the 1st row and 3 on the 2nd. What version of the Mac Plus do you have: the Beige or Platinum model ? I have a few spare brand new original Platinum mouses I bought a while ago.

Have you tried removing the ball of the mouse and cleaning the rolls ? With the ball removed, you can move the rolls with your fingers: this should move the cursor if the mouse is not broken. To make sure: check for bend pins on the mouse connector and clean them with Isopropyl alcohol. The...

I haven't tried that yet. If you decide to give it a go, let me know if worked.

Indeed they have the desoldering gun but the price is excluding 21% of VAT so extremely expensive compared to USA prices. Anyway I have a Pace rework station with a desoldering piece and hot air Thermojet so this has to work. My first attempts that didn't succeed were with my desoldering iron...

Even though I have a desoldering station from Pace, I'm considering the Hakko 808. There's just one problem: I can't find it for sale anywhere in Europe. Did they even make a European 230 volts version ? Anyway importing a 110 volts version from the USA in not an option for me as I will be...

You're right. Indeed the motherboard of the 140/145/170 series has another socket for the daughter card than other PB100 models. It has been a while since I opened a Powerbook 100 series. As for the plastic standoffs braking off: that's regrettably perfectly normal. They brake due to aging...

If cleaning the heads don't work you can also try to demagnetize them. I always do both when I service a floppy drive. However sometimes the heads can get damaged, due to a bad floppy disc. I assume the hard drive is not working too or perhaps it's wiped since it doesn't boot from the HDD. Do...

I check the Hakko desoldering station. The temptature range in the specs is very high 380-480°C/715-895°F. I have a desoldering station from Pace and hardly ever desolder higher than 320°C, where the minimum of the Hakko is 380°C. Won't this burn the PCB or do you want a very high temperature...