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Bump the voltage up a bit on the bench PSU to compensate for now. The Powerbook has internal regulation that will step it down to the (probably) 5v internally that the system uses. Up to 9V would likely be quite safe. The system may run a little warmer due to the extra voltage to the regulator...

Yeah, just shave off a few mm of the rib there at the end and it should be alright. Haven't been able to find the metal strips like that locally so I haven't put mine together yet, probably going to have to order them.

If you only saw my workspace... I almost don't have room for the Powerbook as it is, and the 520ST is still sitting in the back seat of my car.

It's more than just during warmup, it basically never really stabilizes.

Necromancy! Ferrix: Making a capacitor order for my screen. I've got all ceramics in the cart for the screen itself, would you recommend going with ceramics for the Inverter board as well? It definitely needs a recap as I'm experiencing a lot of contrast drift. Your video is fantastic btw.

Sweet, I'll give these a run tomorrow! Yeah, I'm actually pretty impressed with how well the bridging works on the makerbot. I do run a little cooler than average to minimize the sag. I did a test fit with the cover and didn't see any issues... the rails on the cover don't really latch onto them...

Just without the dividers would be enough, I think. What are you using for modeling, if I might ask? Edit: I really don't mean to seem like I'm nit-picking. These are really great and I'm SUPER appreciative of your work!

Maybe I'm missing something with the lid, but there's a gap from the ribs on the underside of the lid where it hits the lip in the pack. Gonna shave the ribs off at the edges so it'll sit flush.

Ah, didn't look like you'd used support material in the other print, so I didn't enable them. Also I typically hate Makerbot's supports. Those look different though, maybe they've improved them. I literally design stuff around using as little support as possible, due to how much I despise MB's...

I just printed up a pair of the PB 1xx trays, and they came out really well. 3D printing replacement plastic bits is a great thing, and Westinghouse is a dang prodigy with the design. The trays even have freaking rounded edges! I wouldn't have thought to incorporate that had I designed the tray...

Or if you don't mind sharing the design files, I can make the modifications and re-upload. These are really great man. Serious kudos.

There's a couple of printing issues with the screwholes on the main tray, mainly that having them jut out like that ends up with the printer trying to print them in mid-air. By the time it gets to the smaller hole for the screw shaft though, it's leveled out. Having a slope from the main body to...

Printing up now!

The question I have is if the powerbook is actually sending a spin-down command and supplying power, or if it's just cutting power to the drive and letting the drive controller park the head? Generally, the recommendation with SSD is never to "spin down". The card itself takes a second to boot...

That's essentially what I'm thinking, although I have a feeling that you'll need power for a couple of seconds after the system goes to sleep. A large capacitor might buffer enough power to help the drive "spin down" after the system sleeps.

I have ideas in my head to mitigate the issue, will need to confer with an engineer buddy.

Follow-up question, do you think it would "spin-down" properly when powered on the USB from an internal source on the Powerbook?

WHoooooo! Downloaded, I'll try to get my Rep2 up and running in the next week and get one printed up! Do you have a recommendation on thermal fuse, or just use the ones from the original battery?

Thanks! This is something of an indulgence to a long-standing retrocomputing addiction, and my first functional foray into m68k computing - I recently acquired a 520ST but it needs significant work. The Powerbook is something far more useful. I really don't have space for much more than this...

I think it's just the lighting here, the angle of the camera combined with the contrast setting.