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Correct, extrusion printers don't have the precision. He's talking about a resin-based DLP/SLA process that can attain incredibly high resolution in all three axes.

Prusa is pretty darn good stuff.

Cool, I'll try to get to it tonight. Someone tried to steal my car the other night so last night was spent unboxing and testing my new security camera system.

Cool, I'll take a look in the next couple of days and see about starting up a print run. Really busy so I might not be able to get to it tonight.

It should have no effect on vignetting, that's a known moisture issue. Changing the light source won't help unfortunately.

I've got filament in black/white/grey, if you've got .stl files I can print and ship.

Daaaaaaang, that's nice. I'm interested in the LED mod and how well it works. My 160 could probably benefit from that - I get about 3 hours on 5 NiMH cells as it is. Actually running a NiCd battery back in it now, got a NOS third-party battery and was able to recover a decent bit of capacity, it...

Nice! Almost looks like a Saturn pad. I need to get my Nomad fixed. How does it feel in play?

The vapor smoothing is only really available for ABS prints, acetone vapor immersion will slightly melt the surface, smoothing it out. I think PLA is more common now due to the printer cost (no need for heated bed or extra ventilation), and doesn't have an easy smoothing method like that.

They apparently don't care about anything more than thermal protection. If not this, then I don't know. I'd point to the difference in charging methods causing the powerbook to stop charging short of a full NiMH charge.

You'd have to add extra circuitry in the battery to properly charge NiMH, as well as protection. Just swapping the cells isn't quite enough to realize the potential. Proper charging methods are quite different between NiCd and NiMH, NiMH packs would usually have components to handle the charge...

I've built a custom pack using NiMH AAs, but I don't charge in-system, I pull the AA cells out and charge them seperately. The 1xx series charger is designed for NiCd though, and the charge method for the two are different enough that NiMH cells don't charge properly, and possibly even dangerously.

They're actually really easy to swap, if you take the screen apart the thing practically falls out. ...if you can find a replacement. Fortunately the one in my 160 is still good.

The problem with LEDs is dark spots. Everything in the 68k powerbook LCDs is designed for a continuously linear light source like a CFL. I've replaced LCD backlights with LED panels and the hotspots are definitely a thing on the edge. It's pretty even after that, but that may bother some people.

Yeah, it's kinda nifty as a business model... almost wish Sketchup had a subscription model because I need more than the free provides, and even the student license is too high. Fusion360 at least has a free (but fully functional) hobbyist license you just renew every year. Still trying to...

I like this idea, as I've been working with the innards of my Powerbook 190cs and the drive mounting (or lack thereof in this case) bothers me greatly. A simple adapter plate might be enough. If I get some time soon I'll break out the calipers and get something modeled up.

Ooooh, so very interested in this for my Powerbooks. I saw the original X68000 project recently and thought it might be adapted to the Macs, glad to see someone's already running with it!

I have one of the bad slot Powerbooks myself, can't remember which it was. This was a known defect by Apple, if you caught it in time they'd even repair it free of charge (of course they won't nowadays). It does sound like a bad RAM stick though - those can cause all sorts of wackiness.

Dry caps you won't necessarily see. Like I said, it can *look* perfectly fine, even test ok with a meter but that won't show things like ringing and ripple from the caps, you'd need a scope for that. Also, temperature changes on bad caps can cause significant failure, this is what I suspect the...

I see you did swap the inverter as a test, in that case it could be other caps behind the board. The power section near the battery has several large caps that likely need replacement. Basically just swap out every electrolytic cap in the system you can find, and go from there. My 190cs has...