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Clean those pads *thoroughly* with isopropyl and solder wick. It'll smell horrible, like rotten fish, but it'll make everything go much more smoothly. Also, continuity tests don't work like you think on capacitors - their purpose is basically to temporarily store a charge, and continuity tests...

Personally I'm happy with the result of using ceramics in my screen, and it's nice to know I'll likely never have to take that out and do it again.

Maybe, if you use crappy caps you may have to replace them sooner. In a lot of situations, ceramic caps can be used to replace electrolytics. There are some where you don't want to swap to ceramics though, like audio, video, and possibly power filtering circuits due to specific properties of...

Yeah, try to find close in voltage rating if you can. Replace *all* the electrolytic caps you can - if they haven't failed or started leaking yet, they will soon. Even if they don't look like it, it may be stealthily corroding what lies beneath. Ceramics are ok for the screen, but tantalum caps...

My whole thing is basically taking these and upgrading as far as I can, and then getting them online if possible. My 190cs is functionally online via a VLAN-segregated wifi network at home :p

My Pb160's keyboard is rather pleasant to use, and I actually do intend to use it for quite a bit of word processing, complete with the "whip it out at Starbucks" and connecting it to the wifi via dialup... via a computer orders of magnitude smaller and more powerful :p

Safety is far more important indeed, and there's plenty of inexpensive and decent lithium charge controllers. Mixing battery chemistries with different chargers can get dangerous quite quickly. Also, you're looking at NiCd to Lithium on the PB160. NiMH can be used, but not safely charged from...

No. The slide still fits on the case however, and effectively holds it in place. I've used it with 5 NiMH AAs with no issues.

Do not install it. When doing cap replacements, match the uF rating, voltage rating should be equal to or higher than the original. Also pay attention to temperature ratings, often capacitance values will change drastically if the temperature goes outside the rated range.

Sounds like it. I do recommend switching to a SCSI2D if you can, definitely solves that problem permanently :p Although it seems odd that it would *work* after such grinding.

Johnnya101: Think I have my print profile tweaked to handle small parts like the feet now, gonna try to remember to get a print run off tonight.

The caps are likely the same or similar. Ferrix''s videos are what I used as a guide for doing my 160. The speaker does click when the audio system kicks on and off, it's off most of the time and turns on only when playing audio.

Ouch, yeah the screen caps on these are baaaaaadddd Every one of the caps around the LCD on my PB160 was leaking onto the pcb. Swapped out and good as new.

Interesting. I've thought about using the Industrial cards, but the plain ones have been working fine in my PB190cs. Generally do recommend sticking with Sandisk, Transcend and Kingston have both died on me far more quickly than they should. Hopefully the Transcend industrial is a bit more stable.

Eventually I'm going to get an Simplify3D license. I've seen pretty fantastic stuff come off that slicer, all sorts of ways to optimize the build.

Yeah, Makerbot was an open design too... at first. Micro Center carries a Replicator 2X clone for $700 that basically spanks the official model. I've seen prints come off that I can't touch with the Rep2 after it's been freshly leveled, cleaned, and tuned. Smaller buildplate though. I do like...

Ah, that may be the case. The system in the 160 just has the single reflector and light guide. If you could get a strip that's dense enough it might work, but heat and space may quickly become an issue. I'd love to see it done though! Even if it is a little uneven, it's just at the right edge of...

If I were buying one, I definitely would not go Makerbot. I was given a hand-me-down Replicator 2 and just work with what I have. It does a good enough job if you know the quirks.

I picked up this set on clearance at Micro Center for almost half this price: https://www.amazon.com/WinBook-Security-Channel-Digital-Recorder/dp/B00WXGWLSS It's...ok. Cameras are SD, not HD, and use composite BNC video connections to the DVR. The cloud access feature is entirely unencrypted...

Ok, I tried to print up four feet in a batch last night and LOLNOPE. Going to have to print individually. Fast FDM printers don't perform well for small details in batch.