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You cannot wire the VBATT wire in with VMAIN because VBATT has to be a 1A current regulated supply. If you have one 16V laptop brick, say at 4A, leaving it plugged in with the laptop powered off when it's wired this way will send 4A straight into the battery - not good.

That’s regular film so it won’t work. You need FSTN film which includes an extra retarder layer required for passive matrix displays to display a proper image. That’s unfortunately harder to find.

Thank you!

You need a small flathead driver, there are little slots in them. If you're finding that the colors flicker in and out when you mess with the interconnect cable, then don't mess with them, or you'll then sit for 20 minutes trying to get them adjusted right, think you have it, and then second...

If it's been recapped and the polarizer is fine, then you need to adjust the potentiometers on the left side of the panel. Unfortunately, this is a very fiddly process and it takes forever to get the image looking "just right". I've had to do this on at least three of these LQ9D01 panels and...

Bad PRAM battery will not cause this problem, it’s a logic failure of some sort.

Panasonic VL2330 is the battery type I believe.

That's the typical screen you see on cold boot for a few seconds when the CMOS battery is dead. I believe it's the default contents of VRAM or something of that sort - it's supposed to refresh that and boot obviously, but yours isn't. It pretty much just means there's been a logic failure and it...

Mine has the same issue, no clue why. If you get it figured out then let me know so I can fix mine!

I’ll bet that backlight damage is a discoloration of the diffuser panel that’s in the display. It’s a sheet of acrylic I think.

Yes I did:

If the voltage varies when you fiddle with the cable, then it's probably a break in the cable rather than bad caps. Not that these supplies never need recapping, my first 5300 supply (same PSU design, different connector) needs it.

I do have a restored PB100, but only the one - all mine took was a recap and then it was good to go. A lot of other people end up way unluckier than me. Maybe it was @imactheknife you were thinking of? He's been through a few.

No unfortunately, nothing is immune. It can happen to any laptop, desktop, or even car infotainment systems. The PVA film is to my knowledge still used today, or at least up till very recently. The newest system I’ve heard an account of this happening to was a 2011 MacBook Pro, I believe owned...

Does the hard disk properly initialize? If it's a Quantum GoDrive/Daytona/Europa then it's toast - those have rubber bumpers inside that melt and get the heads stuck. It's also likely it wouldn't read on a USB adapter anyway. The display corruption could be due to corrosion damage from a...

It looks the same from a first glance but I can't be sure as I'm on vacation. I thought it might be different inside since the 5300 supply would be a year older, but seemingly not. Will get the values up on macdat once you have them :)

I've opened a 5300 supply, but not that one. Still have to actually recap that supply and get the values - I could definitely use the ones from the 1400 PSU!

My 150, despite a (admittedly poorly installed) 3D printed hinge fix, has completely split plastic around both hinges. Mind you, that’s the entire housing split, not just the standoffs. Had to blob epoxy on like crazy to keep it was falling to bits. I need a plastics donor badly. Note that the...

I have a 1GB drive in my 150 - it must be pre-formatted in another Mac, otherwise the 150 format utility fails.

Just to warn you - the 150 has really bad plastics. The other 100 series models get a bad rap, but they're actually not brittle - the plastics shrink a bit which causes the screwposts to crumble as the plastic can't shrink around the metal screw threads. Because of this, it's easy to restore one...