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Yup, right here (in the purple box): It may be an SMD version like shown here, but I've also seen removable versions.

Congrats on the acquisition! Which adapter did you get, and did you test voltages (sometimes their capacitors fail and they fail or go way overspec)? Is the machine doing anything at all when you try to boot? If the adapter is good (should read ~7.8V... needs to be at least 3.0A, original was...

What is the sound like through the audio jack? Same symptoms? I read above that the hum is audible, wondering about the level issues.

I'm not finding a '4, SOUND H' on page 8 - I must be missing it? I'm not seeing SOUND H on page 4 either as that suggests. However, I do see a (3) SOUND.H, which goes to Pin 11 of J10 (page 3).

Weird... yeah everything looks fine. Are you using the test speaker or the original?

OK, so no power at the floppy port, no change with fresh solder. Time to start testing on the analog board itself, see if voltages are present where they need to be, starting from the switch and working forward. I'm currently getting ready to leave town for the week, so I can't go in to detail...

That scans. Accelerators were usually installed with fans for this reason. My accelerated Pluses run noticeably hotter than the non-accelerated ones.

Oh that's great news! Congrats! That must have been a satisfying (and also a little face-palming) conclusion lol - we've all been there. :) She'll fly on 6.0.8

Nice! Thanks for the update. As for that apparently clipped resistor, my IIGS's PSU is a little different; mine has a resistor there, but all of the values of the neighbouring resistors are very different that what's on your board...

The joints circled in this image (https://forums.macrumors.com/attachments/128k-analog-comon-cracked-solder-video-pin-jpg.763018/) tend to crack over time... the set with ten pins (marked as J4 on the component side) connects the analog board to the logic board, so a bad joint there could be an...

Let's get back to brass tacks... are you getting any voltages at the floppy port (page 38 in Pina) or on the analog board? If there's power, what is it reading and can you adjust it? If there's no power, you need go to back to the source and work forward: check your switch is good, check the...

Yeah, that's frustrating... it's interesting that both SWIM's produce the same result - but it doesn't mean the one from the Classic is busted, it very well could be that there is a bad connection or trace that is interfering with instructions. So some continuity checks are in order - thankfully...

Great - that should get you started. Keep us posted, and ask questions if you hit a road block!

The power supply is integrated into the analog board, so it's more of a process of 'fixing' the power supply as opposed to replacing it. But you should verify the voltages first as an initial step of troubleshooting. Refer to page 38-39 of this PDF...

Hmmmm... I wonder what that award winning software package is, because I have a Quik30 in one of my Pluses and it's generally good using the Railgun drivers but, you know.

Just tested mine, unloaded (disconnected from the logic board), I get: Pin 4: +5.20 Pin 5: +11.45 Pin 6: -11.13 Pin 7: -4.87 I haven't recapped mine, but my machine works fine. I suspect my +12 is low though... As for what to do, I personally don't know what the usual suspects are. But fwiw...

The VIA and SWIM are the first two stops in the startup sequence, tested and initialized first before the RAM test or any other system tests. If they're not there or functioning properly, the Portable won't boot. If you're not in a hurry, you could source some low-melt solder and use that...

I'm kinda wondering if it was some kind of reboot mod, in which case it could interfere with power... Totally guessing. God knows. Super curious to know what it was connected to...

Well I guess you could drill the grommets out...