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Update. I had partial success with the printed 3-D gear. It is making good contact along the small (slave) gear as you can see in the attached video. However the gear at the base is not making proper contact with the master motor gear. I will print a few variations of this and see what works...

Grear arrives Monday.   I should be able to test it and will report back on results.

Thanks all.  We're keeping it informative and civilized.  Hope the info can help others as well.

I agree with celgen. I would never count on 'full brightness and pull power plug' method alone. Nor was I advocating this. Like I said, Always discharge. And do it to the Grounding lug ONLY. Good day!

I WILL refer you to the source. People read this FIRST, then comment ! "The other one is the older version of the Apple CRT Discharge Tool (Part No. 076-0243). The older version has a copper alligator clip but no hand guard. It has a built-in 100-megohm resistor, which means you will not hear...

Celgen: Could you please edit your post to clarify exactly what of everything that has been said here is so dangerous?

I meant INTEND not pretend!

Celgen: The brightness setting matters if you pretend to discharge the CRT by just pulling the power plug while Mac is on. It's irekevant for any other aspect.

Another good source stating GROUND LUG ONLY. I guess if you are using a 10Mohm resistor in your discharge tool it doesn't matter. http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=759704&seqNum=2

Thanks. I read multiple sources stating to ground to GROUND LUG ONLY. Not chassis.

Well just for completeness, I wanted to point out what I have learned after successfully taking apart the CRT: 1)  You must GROUND the discharge tool to the GROUNDING LUG ON THE CORNER OF THE MONITOR.   Do NOT ground to the chassis at any other place... it can (and likely WILL) kill your logic...

How did you manage to shock yourself grounding the anode?!  Were you doing something wrong?  Seems like a safe procedure if you have a properly built 'tool', ground one side correctly, and and poke correctly on the anode.  Please explain?

Funny... I hear you say that, but I also hear numerous stories from people that have gotten SHOCKED....  and I'm pretty sure they weren't screwing around with the anode! 

Yeah, I took the motherboard out already. I need to discharge the CRT to get everything out and remove the front plastic faceplate for de yellowing

Do you normally hear a ZAP when you followup with the ground discharge ?  (considering that you first  disconnected at full brightness..)

I read just now that one must discharge to the grounding lug only. Which may not be the same as the frame from what I can tell. Anyway, I will follow the process of discharging.

I know there are numerous discussion on the topic of discharging CRTs for compact Macs.  however, I have found conflicting information regardin the propwer grounding LOCATION.    On a Mac 512Ke, is it OK to ground the discharge wire to the ground (same as chassis) of the computer?    I think I...

30 mins and I created a replica gear using ISO standard Gear ratios, which this seems to be based upon.  10:30 teeth count.  Measured everything with micrometer. I will try 3D printing, but I have no idea if a printed gear will withstand the necessary force... it may be too brittle.  We'll see.

Do you remove the clips from top!? Anyway, I'm thinking: 3D print gear. Or just remove the motor and eject manually?

I assume the four washers you are referring to are the ones on the top of the picture I posted above. They just don't seem plastic to me, rather seam metal. In any case, I did not find a way to remove them. If you have any tips please let me know. On a sidenote, I looked at the eject motor of...