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It is some kind of "very cold and northern European countries" model, M0110 SV. Compared to the modern Finnish/Swedish AEK II it has some unusual keys like Ü an É.

SCSI2SD took a moment to set up but nothing too difficult. I did a setup of two 2GB drives and SE/30 booted up nicely on both 6.0.8 and 7.5.5. The floppy drive was able to format disks so I decided to create a boot disk for 512ke project: I don't have any real DD disks so I just taped over...

Today I was driving around and buying Macintosh parts. I bought one more Apple Extended Keyboard II, SD2SCSI v4.2c and Asante Desktop EN/SC 10T SCSI to Ethernet adapter (with original box, install disk and manual). The last item was pure luck, I asked the keyboard seller if he had some other old...

And it works! The second pass with new solder fixed and now the screen looks great. Any guesses whether this 512Ke with MacMemory MaxPort SCSI interface would be able to boot from a SCSI drive or SCSI2SD?

Alright, some progress. I went over bunch of analog board solders but most likely missed one or two... Now I get good image if I squeeze the mac from the sides. It didn't do that before so I think this one is fixable. I'll have to revisit the board once more and then it is time to find some...

After chatting with a mechanical keyboard expert I got to know there is a chance to replace the key stem with 3d printed part (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2753362). Luckily I have a printer stored in the attic, hopefully PLA is good enough for this part.

I noticed two keycaps are somehow wobbly on the keyboard. They travel up and down fine but somehow there is something broken inside the switch. Is this common issue on these keyboards and is it possible to fix without replacing the switch?

Taking this further apart. Is this just a SCSI-adapter or some kind of CPU upgrade as well? Everything looks ok on the analog board. Caps are flat topped, no goo or burn marks. I'll follow joshc's advice and redo solders on the board.

I took a quick look inside, unfortunately the original programmer switch got damaged as the plastic was really brittle. There is a MacMemory MaxPort SCSI interface There wasn't anything really burnt or blown up on the analog board as far as I could tell without taking the whole computer...

After somewhat fixing two SE/30 I wanted another challenge. It was advertised as an 512Ke but the model is M0001D so it is education model I guess. I was told it has an 800kb floppy drive and a SCSI card. It came with a short keyboard and cable but the DB-9 mouse has been lost. It starts up with...

Managed to fix the SE/30 logic board with the square dots errors. My jumper wire would not pass critical inspection but the computer starts up now with a startup chime and no more screen issues.

Alright, it turned out that I have A0 line broken between UD8 (pin4) and UK6 (pin 10). Tomorrow time for some jump wire. 

While waiting to get new System disk I'm switching to the square dotted motherboard. I found this thread   and I downloaded bunch of SE/30 schematics. Should I go though with flux and resolder UE8 and its neighbours? Or would it be better measure first  UD8 and UK6,  UE10 and UI8  etc...? 

Rather embarrassing turn in the story. In the morning I stepped on something hard and that was C7. I had dropped it before soldering and somehow ignore the empty spot. Strange that the computer was able to work at all. Anyways, I soldered that in to place and cleaned disk drive. No change. I...

The same disk used to boot fine on the same machine couple days. After re-recapping it did load like in the screen shot above but then loading stopped. On the following attempts it just ejects the disk after the Happy Mac icon, like in this video I found: .

I decided to ignore the old C9- pad and resoldered caps. For C9- to J12 pin7 I made a rather ugly jump as suggested by LaPorta. Now I get a startup chime, screen is perfect and it tries to boot up. But looks like the disk drive failed, it doesn't want to start reading the System from the disk...

I checked all the capacitor pads with multimeter based on this:  I found out C9- to J12 pin7 is not there, but C9- (or whatever solder is left in the crater) is actually shorting to the ground. I guess I should suck/wick that out?

The "worse board" received de-capping now. Unfortunately, it turned out that C9 has lost its other pad at some point and now only a crater remains. I was going over them with flux and fresh 60/40. I have to find out where that pad should connect to so I can measure or jump wire it.  ...

Alright, I washed the "better board", too. It seems to have a recap job done with through hole caps but with a little bit nicer soldering. I did a lighter wash with IPA only. But after drying up I got only horizontal stripes. Based on the info online I decided to swap the RAM & ROM SIMMs...

Well, the wash with water and dishwasher and then good IPA rinse didn't make any difference for worse one of boards. Still totally messed up video.