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Got the board out and swapped the scsi drive - All went well but here are a few specifics:
1] HD no longer an issue, the old one was just dead. New HD working perfectly.\
2] Cleaned and examined the board. It looked suprisingly good to me eyes. I saw no evidence of leaking or popped caps...
Well...I got in the and got the board and drives out. Everything was very smooth. Thanks for your advice and information everyone.
If any of you would be kind enough to offer some advice on my sound and RAM issues, please see my "diagnosing my se/30" thread.
Very helpful! Thanks everyone.
One final question - assuming the machine is not physically plugged in (and therefore off), is the only really dangerous part the actual anode (red auction cup thing) ?
Are parts of the analog board, other parts of the LCD or possibly even the chassis potentially...
I think analog board looks ok...there is a sound issue in that I have none except a very faint signal from the headphone jack. I assume this is most likely a cap on the logic board.
The official take-apart guide indicates removing the display board on the CRT to get the logic board out.
Could...
Yes I've seen there'd suction cup...so
You're saying I should resist the urge to lick that when the machine is on...no matter how tempted I get? Lol...
Anyway my real question is based on experience with high voltage with big caps inside guitar amplifiers where it is said you can actually be...
cleaned out the floppy drive with Qtips and alcohol and it booted right up from disk tools....Still no sound externally but I hear a very faint "simple beep" alert sound (when I click on it in the sound control panel which I added to the disk tools floppy) coming out of the headphone jack.
Any...
I have no intention of monkeying with CRTs but I want to recap my se/30. I am technically proficient with Mac repairs but I have a wife and two boys and I generally enjoy life more than playing greyscale asteroids...
So just how dangerous are these specific CRTs on the SE and SE/30? Are people...
So then it seems the actual "tunneling" issue (gradual darkening of the corners after the computer has been on awhile) as opposed to contrast issues (like techknights) is - as far as we can tell - most likely an issue with the LCD screen in specifically active-matrix/greyscale like the 540(nonC)...
Just got an "as is" on eBay....Here are the issues:
When I turn on the power switch, I get no startup chime (not sure why? No sound?) but the CRT comes on displaying the "?" disk (looking for a valid drive)...
Assuming the hard drive is dead, I put several System 6 and 7 disk tools floppies...
There are four capacitors on the inverter board of the 540s...they are each fairly isolated and look easy to replace. There's one or two on the main logic board but I don't think those have anything to do with the video circuit.
I'll replace them next week when I've got some time. Nothing to lose.
That sounds like his fix (on the pb160 at least) is replacing a "40v supply" - does this mean the caps on the inverter board in the LCD assembly? Even if they look ok? Or do I misunderstand what he means ?
As a last resort - If I replaced the motherboard and LCD with one from a 540c or 520b/w...
My 540's LCD is afflicted by the gradually darkening corners....I'm confident taking all of it apart and putting it back together, soldering etc...Just need to know what to do if there is any fix besides replacing the LCD (Caps on the Inverter Board and Logic Board look fine.) Thanks for any help.
Today my LW300 died or so it seems...I took it apart to replace the fuses on the power board and noticed the fuses looked fine. The capacitors all looked great as well.
It seems to do nothing when plugged in. No sound or activity (motor etc...) except the green LED by the "U" looking icon (the...
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