Search results

One interesting point... I was able to get those plastic pins that hold in that white plastic sheet over the analog board VERY easily by gently easing them out with needle nose pliers. After that I just laid the SE/30 on it's side and resoldered the contact points no problem. I suppose there...

I can't thank you enough for literally giving me the step by step...It miraculously came with 32MB of RAM installed...I put a 500MB scsi drive in there and tested it all with Apple Personal Diagnostics...All tested ok so I'm just gonna leave it as is...(and force my 6 year old to play some retro...

After recapping the logic board, resoldering all of the contacts on the analog board and installing a new hard drive, I'm happy to report that my SE/30 is now 100% with no simasimac and finally sound! Big thank you to everyone who offered the tips that made this possible!!!

Yeah I'd like to see that as a sticky. Very good article. Thanks for pointing that one out and sorry to dwell on covered topics.

Man...I'm just too chicken to mess with that CRT. There's a guy who runs a tv repair shop down the road. He said he'd help me out with it so we'll see what happens.

Yeah, mines an 800k.

Thanks. What's the easiest way to get the board out ?

After verifying a good logic board (runs fine in my SE), my next step to getting my SE/30 in shape seems to be resecuring the solder points on the analog board. I may take this to a pro to do but I'm imagining that white protector cover (case side) on the analog board comes off easily ? And...

I can verify that....I couldn't get it to really fit by about a 1/2 an inch. The power cable going to the analog board just hits the chassis and that logic board just isn't going in without some hacking.

Thanks for the advice - that sounds easy to do once I get the analog board out. Is it risky? Do I need to discharge the CRT? What's the best method for extracting the analog board without paying the ultimate cost for 68k liberation ?

I put my recapped SE/30 logic board in my SE and was happy to hear a healthy startup chime! So I'm assuming the logic board is ok. The sound and clicking issues must be related to the analog board. I'm happy to have what appears to be a clean, healthy logic board which seem to be much tougher...

Thanks techknight! Strangely this CRT came back to life today in all it's color glory....then promptly died again back to a solid white screen. Could that still be symptomatic of a fuse ?

Also - my instinct tells me that the shaking it to get it going thing means a loose connection somewhere. I can only imagine that loose connection is on the analog board or the CRT itself since i've examined the logic board closely? Does this sound like a reasonable assumption.

Can I pop in a known working SE logic board (which I have) ? This will tell me right away if the problem is in the logic board or analog board. I'm not sure if both the SE and SE/30 use the same analog board??? Or if there's any other risk in swapping model boards?

Ok - actually it's acting exactly as it did before the recap. - sometimes dead screen on startup (the drive is spinning and the system is booting just a black screen which will sometimes come on if I gently shake it) - No sound including bong - steady soft click from the speaker...faint sound...

Also when I go to the sound control panel (sys 7.0.1) and click on the alert sounds (I turned the volume up), I get a very brief distorted sound from sosumi and clickclack only (the others are silent). There is a very soft steady clicking coming from the speaker which was also there before the...

Recapped all except c2 and c11 (which look good visually) ...still no sound except for very very faint from the headphone jack. What should I look for in terms of the sound issue next? - RAM issue? - Something on the analog board? - c2 and c11 ? - faulty headphone jack ? - anything else ...

Wow - thanks. Sounds like you know alot about these. What I lack in knowledge, I make up for with a steady soldering hand. Is there any chance of repairing this fuse ?

The LCD inside my PowerBook 540c is a "Toshiba LTM09C017"...and I believe it's dead. I've swapped it out with A greyscale LCD from my 540 (which works) and therefore I don't think the boards are the problem. The Toshiba faded to blank white and it seems permanent...are there any retrofit LCD...

How did the printing on the front and the apple logo turn out?