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The first 5 128k images, showing how minimally yellowed it is. Especially for 26+!

Indeed my friend, I sure did put it on there as soon as I actually found out where they put the actual serial number (it took me sleeping on it before I found it was in the same place as the serial number on the Mac SE I once owned but a long time ago started Sad Macing and I unfortunately had...

I searched on Google, but the only serial number decoding website I was able to find spat out the information I linked to at the beginning of my post (It was the 803rd made in Fremont California in the 41st week of 1984, which puts it around a month after the 512k came out (the week of October...

And also, what should I adjust the voltage to? From the seller I got it from, he said that the person who gave it to him to sell (supposedly!) didn't fiddle with the voltage switch. I read in that same document that if the voltage wasn't fiddled with (which from all the information I have, it...

Thank you to the most recent people to help me. I would be more than willing to learn, except when I try to do just about anything like de-soldering and soldering things it winds up killing the computer in question. I did find out from another thread that there are these "tritanium" or some such...

Bless your heart for responding to my poor issue and trying to help me! I had Googled everything I could (looked at over 40 pages on all the searches that would yield more than 40 pages and all the pages on anything less, and in the process of my research, including downloading the...

Update: Left out an "M" in the 128k's serial number; it's F4410PMM0001. I dutifully entered it into the M0001 Registry. I can't get to Canada anytime soon, so the fellow who lives in Ontario who knows a vintage TV repairman who is in every way except geographical distance perfect to fix my...

To answer the first of your questions, since I have no experience (unfortunately) on the others, turbocharged Mac SE's (maybe not from that exact brand, but there are several different models including just sticking an SE/30 motherboard in a plain-jane SE do occasionally pop-up. That particular...

To echo what other brilliant posters have said, the deflection yoke is the holdup. To offer a unique perspective, a similar problem is bedeviling me with a Macintosh 128k, serial number F4410PMM0001. The symptoms ate slightly different and the cause is also slightly different, but it is in the...

I found a LaserWriter Plus in Bethel one day (they were by the local flea market then) and I bought it and it took me forever to figure out why it wouldn't go-someone had taken the paper tray out of it. The printer I got for less than $30, this was back around 2000, but once I finally figured...

Good for you kind sir! I have a 128k, can't tell much until I get someone who can actually be effective with a soldering iron to get the CRT to work; but I like the iMac 333-I got one from my Aunt Freddie and it is grape, she gave me the original keyboard and hockey-puck mouse with it (they...

Considering the problems in reliability the "Professional PowerBooks" have sometimes, that's why I got a G3 iBook clamshell 366MHz graphite SE Tokyo Revision B model. Not as fancy, not as fast, not as easy to fix when something does break, but except when the temperature in our little part of...

Yep, I love the Classic Mac OS, never really have fallen for this "X" thing and the AppleVision 1710AV was the ultimate monitor. I remember in 2001 I was on a school field trip to Nashville, TN and I saw a room full of 8500/120's with AppleVision 1710AV displays and that still has me swooning...

I know now that my Mac 128k has either a bad connection between the deflection yoke cable and the motherboard or at worst the deflection yoke cable is shot. The CRT tries to come on, but we get the most annoying single vertical line issue. Everything else works as much as can be tested (I want...