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NTE2309 - would this perhaps be a suitable replacement?
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/2300to2399/pdf/nte2309.pdf
BTW what other components blew on your analogue board? My 240V board also had a blown fuse and burnt out bridge rectifier diodes. I never did get it working though:( Perhaps I should...
Paralel mentioned that he had heard of issues with step-down transformers so looking for a quality one at a decent price. I would prefer to convert the analog board to 240V but have no idea what parts would need replacing. I originally thought it would be a matter of just replacing the...
Macdrone has very kindly sent me a 110V analog board from the US. Was wondering if there is any easy way to covert this to accept 240V or would it be best to use with a step down transformer?
Have tested SCRs and they all tested okay. If I get time I may start testing each component individually out of circuit but I think repairing this has become beyond my expertise! I've spent far too many hours with this.. My brother-in-law is quite clued up in electronics so next time I see him I...
Speaker has stopped the continuous clicking noise now. Have tested live power supply and found 170V on primary side of transformer and no voltage on any of secondary outputs. Also the speaker makes a click every now and then when testing voltage on primary side. Does this mean T3 transformer is...
Have been testing around the rectifiers and wondering if the transformer T3 is faulty? Looks like a sticky residue on it and not sure if this is normal? Also how would I test if this is faulty?
Thanks for your suggestions. I only have a basic multimeter so can do some basic testing. Do you know where the SCR is on the power supply and any idea how I can test if this is faulty?
Also I replaced CR20 and CR21 rectifiers as they tested faulty with diode test in circuit. After replacing...
Yes probably wouldn't be worth shipping a CRT but the power supply would definitely help :) I don't even know if the logic board and CRT are working till I can get this to turn on..
I won't give up yet! I will keep looking and will probably end up replacing every component on this board...
Thank you very much for your offer - I'm based in the UK. It's really difficult to find replacement parts here in the UK, I guess parts are becoming scarce worldwide.
BTW is there an option to get an email when someone reply to a post?
Have now also replaced CR20 & CR21 rectifiers. Fuse no longer blows! But Mac doesn't turn on either :( Speaker is just making a clicking noise now. I have a C1 capacitor (part no ECWF2395JB) on order but I think there must be something else at fault as the current C1 cap does seem okay.
Had another look at the board tonight and found two diodes shorting out in position CR24 & CR25 on bridge rectifier. Have replaced all four diodes CR22 - CR25 with part 1N4007.
Have also found CR20 and CR21 rectifiers are faulty. Have read the filter capacitors C24-C26 and C29-C31 are also...
Thanks for all the advice on this. I will hopefully get a chance over the weekend to do more tests. Will update as soon as I have tested all the components & hopefully find the culprit!
Thanks for your reply. I will get all the caps replaced and see if this helps.
Is there any way I can test the fly back transformer for faults using a multimeter? If it is faulty any idea if they are repairable or still an available part?
Hi everyone! I'm new to this forum and was hoping someone could help..
I recently acquired an original Mac 128k in good condition but unfortunately does not turn on. I found a bit of corrosion on some of the traces on the analog board which I have cleaned up. I also found the fuse was blown on...
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