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I don't have a heat pencil, so it's quite hard to remove SMD chips with just a soldering iron.
The problem lies in the display cable, I haven't made the inverter cable yet.
At this point I am thinking about getting a regular video cable (If it is possible to obtain one) and making the inverter...
Looking at the photos, it seems like the main ceramic chip is socketed, if so, can you pull it out? sometimes they write some details on the bottom as well
Also, it seems that the other socketed chips on the card are AMD Flash erasable PALs. what are they doing? why so many of them?
Update:
I made the replacement cable, but the system sill shown no signs of life, It doesn't matter if I plug the extra ram and backlight board.
In this PDF, I found that there are 4 dip switched on the board, is there a table of the various configurations? Mine are all in the ON position...
Soon I will start making the custom cable, I'll start with the data only and worry about backlight later.
just one question, does a portable work without its display connected?
well, it looks way easier than recapping a 145 display. I think it is doable.
It doesn't look that bad now, I've seen much worse. But if you don't act now you may end up with a lot of broken traces and lifted pads.
I recapped a couple of PB Duo, it is not that hard. I used a soldering pencil with a tiny tip, no hot air required.
The best way to go is SMD electrolytic, if possible smaller in diameter, they make the job easier
Remember that the Duo MiniDock is also filled with the same kind of caps...
Just opened a dead pack, it consists of 10 cells and a couple of sensors.
It looks like the cells are in series. they are slightly smaller that a regular AA, way smaller than an 18650.
once I finish with school I will get beck to this project. in the meantime I've ordered some extra components...
It should be doable. next time I will crack open another battery pack I will post some photos regarding the size and placement of the cells.
Once school finishes I will get back to this project.
I think you should look at the display hinges, they seem very stiff. They also have a tendency to brake loose, since the plastic is very brittle.
as for the display, I think it's easier to get a replacement and change the capacitors on it. the only electrolytic (leaky) capacitors inside a PB...
I think that your card requires a SoG compatible monitor, like a Dell 1907FP.
Or maybe the adapter is not compatible, is it one of those models with a few DIP switches on it?
try powering it from the keyboard.
also, try removing the HDD and the FD drive
Are you using an Apple CRT display?, maybe you need a monitor/adapter that understands Sync on Green (SoG).
Great!
but, the solution is only momentary, you need to replace the capacitors inside.
If you continue to heat the PSU, you will reach a point where it will not power on no matter ho much heat you apply on it. You may also risk damaging the Logic Board.
if you need help replacing the...
Yesterday I recapped the rest of the board, did a quick test, but still nothing.
Is there a good troubleshooting procedure?
As for the cable, I may end up with an "easy to build" solution that fits nicely in the Portable, I'll let you know how it goes!
thanks!
Thanks for your help, I think (if the project ends up working) I will use one of those intelligent chargers
Correction: "I know that I can't recharge the battery from the PowerBook, but I can use one of those RC Planes/cars chargers. at the moment I am using the DV9000 to charge the battery."...
Hi!
Yesterday I tried using a battery pack from a broken (dead GPU) HP DV9000 to power a PowerBook, using one of those cheap DC-DC Step-Down modules.
The battery supplied about 15.5 Volts, the module's output was set to 6.8 Volts and was plugged into the DC Jack of the PowerBook.
With a...
Its the adaptor, also mine does the same thing, you need an Apple DB15 display, or you need a monitor like the Dell 1907FB, which supports Sync on Green (SoG) and very strange resolutions
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