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Great!, thanks. I'll soon send you a PM with a google drive link. As for the ROMs, I don't think I have a reader compatibile with them (not without an adapter for sure), but online I found another website that should have them: (scroll to the bottom)...

Well, the case itself has only room for two packs, right? plus another two inside the unit. (I don't have the case)

I think they only made four of them (plus the SCSI hd test) and it goes up to the performa 520 or so, I don't think there are 68040 or PPC machines compatible with it.

That board is an original 128k board, but later on it got upgraded to 512k. I've even seen 512ks with 4 ram chips piggybacked on each other.

For connecting to the UUT (unit under test) there are all the necessary ports (two serials, two ADBs, SCSI and sound) on a removable module (port pack), not all ports are needed to run a specific test. There is also another serial port on the side of the unit that is used to download test logs...

Opening one up is easier that it looks. A bad PRAM can cause slow startup, but on my Books, they all chime

Probably something rattling inside (like dust or debris) or the rubber around the cone is disintegrating.

Usually a Factory Apple 512K upgrade required a swap of the logic board, not modifying the existing one. They also supplied new badges to replace the original ones. Also, I've never seen an original Macintosh board with socketed memory (after the issues they had with the Apple ///) It was very...

I borrowed the SCR from my Mac Plus ED just to see if the problem was the SCR or something else, since I didn't (and still don't) have the correct SCR replacement on hand. The mac works fine with the SCR from the Plus ED, but with a modern replacement the crowbar kicks in at about 60Vac, the...

It's a device given to technicians to troubleshoot broken macs, similar to ASD on the todays macs. Before it, they had the AppleCAT (where CAT stands for Computer Aided Testing), they used a working mac to test the broken one.

I also had a DaynaFile without a power supply. I don't remember the pinout, but here's what I've done: - with a multimeter i continuity and one probe to the shield of the SCSI connector I started looking for the ground pins - next I checked the voltage pins (as Compgeke suggested) between the...

(not sure if this the right place to post this, technically it's a conquest + repair) Sometimes I go on eBay and search for "Crazy expensive Hard to find Items", such as the Apple TechStep. As always, there were just a few units on sale, but one of them caught my eye: It was listed at 99$...

This thing is really driving me crazy... The only way to make it (sort of) cooperate is by lowering the resistance of R25. By dropping it down at 220Ohm, I can get it to stay on up to 93Vac. I also tried a couple more SCRs with no difference what so ever, even a P0102, which should be the...

Yeah, I bought a second board for replacing the first one but it turned out that the second board had more problems than the first one

I had two boards with the same issue (one with no video at all, the other with partial video), replacing UF8 and UG8 solved my problem. Actually, the no-video one wasn't even able to boot and could not be tested with a TechStep...

You could try a supercapacitor instead of the battery, the size is similar and I'm sure you can "modify" the board to charge it when the machine is on

Well, so far I've tried a bunch of "should be compatible" SCRs and they all do the same thing, like the BT169D, MCR100-8, MCR22-8 and another 2N5064. I've ordered a few P0102s as they are the closest thing to the original I could find locally at a reasonable price I there a way to make the SCR...

I have a 5120 Non-Backlit Portable with a ceramic hybrid, so the IC is a LT1040CN

Thanks Right now I don't have the portable with me, but I'll check the board as soon as I come back home. Removing the LT1179 should be easier than it looks, if you heat the ceramic base with a heat gun you should be able to lift it off without desoldering the hybrid. Never tried on a...

Those SMD cans are still readily available, This one should be a good replacement You can also use ceramics as I did in this video: