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Hi!
A couple of weeks ago I started restoring a PowerBook with the typical issues: Bad caps on the display and stuck hard drive.
As usual, when I removed the front bezel and display, all the four supports crumbled into tiny pieces.
After seeing that glue doesn't always work and usually...
The solder I used (Multicore 288718) already contains flux, In the past I also used flux, but ended up being messy and unnecessary, You don't want to get flux and other junk near the panel or the ribbons.
I use a solder sucker because if you use the wick you have to be careful to not rip those...
The drift in contrast as the machine warms up is normal, I would stay with regular electrolytic con both the inverter (thru hole) and display panel (SMD cans) It looks like they work just a bit better than ceramics
I'd say you case is perfect, I was planning on making one similar to yours but with off-the-shelf battery housings. but your solution looks a lot neater.
As for the voltage, I think they were rated for 6V, so 5 cells should be ideal. I would consider making a case that could store 10 batteries...
I also own one that is powered by the floppy port. I'd say they are quite common.
Mine comes with the original manual and Floppy disk.
According to the manual, they made quite a few storage upgrades both internal and external
judging by the color of the heatsink, I'd day that transistor got quite hot. This usually means that the Flyback is bad. When I replace a FBT, I usually change the driver transistor and diode (both on heatsinks) as well
As I mentioned in another topic a while ago, I was able to obtain a broken TechStep and bring it back to operation by replacing an IC.
Well, Today another one Arrived!
I got it mainly because I wanted the bag and manuals, that unfortunately were missing with the broken one. I also got...
The connector is the usual one (with the smaller center pin). 3D printing a new battery case should be fairly straightforward. It's on my projects list.
An ideal solution would be a case that can be easily opened an closed (something like a hinge on the opposite side of the battery door, remove...
Not to be rude, but I think you should post it in the trading section.
Also, it you want to test it and don't have the original power supply, don't use a generic one, the TechStep is center negative. You should test it with a 9V battery in the bay under the ports block first (read the user guide).
Yup, that's the new one. If you also own a Plus or SE, you'll see that they are different.
It seems that your mac did exactly the things I mentioned in this topic
https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/28497-fixing-a-macintosh-classic-rev-2-analog-board-240v-that-shows-no-signs-of-life/
It seems like you have one video/data line broken. I don't think I have a Classic II schematic on hand, but I would check the connection between the CPU and VIA. If yours is a Rev.2 there should be a cap close to the CPU that could have corrdoed some traces
EDIT: possibly more than one. I see...
If replacing the caps does not solve the issue, try heating p the are where the switching IC and optocoupler are located. sometimes a bad switching IC causes this problem
When you turn it off you probably disable the protection circuits, but I'm not so sure about that.
Is the HD connected to the SCSI interface? maybe it only turns on when enabled by the mac.
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