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If you are interested, the backlight power/contro cables (just 4) are separate from the video/data cable, so you ca run just 4 wires separately from the backlight board to the inverter, which is what I will do.
Yesterday I swapped all of the capacitors except the axials. Once they arrive I'll...
Genius Idea, love this machine!
EDIT: now the machine shows some signs of life, but there is still not chime.
when the current rises the floppy makes the typical "blip" noise, then it seems to reset again, check out the video, or download it from this post
PortableTest1.mov
for the moment...
Thanks!,
So is it just like a PB100?, but near the two interrupt/reset buttons, there is also a slide switch with an arrow and a circle, what does it do?
Yup, Ordering caps soon!
tonight I will try again and see what happens!
Great!
How do I turn it on?
Tried hooking my benchtop supply to the main battery and a good 9V battery, but no signs of life
what does the switch on the side do?
He bought it with a broken cable, it is a not-for-resale unit.
at this point, I think the best way is to solder a new cable (like a floppy drive cable) to the transition between the gray ribbon cable and the orange flat-flex, then solder that cable to CN1 on the display and on the inverter...
Thanks for your help!
This is the other end, the plug is the same for both backlit and non-backlit, the backlit then goes to a flat flex. that joins the data and the backlight.
Good news! CN1 is connected to the flat flex connector!, maybe it was the connector for the non-backlit model.
At this point, I think I will make a new cable using very thin wire, the same I use to repair traces on logic boards.
then put all of the wires in a loom and route it to the display...
You can also get those universal ones with switches on the casing, even if the voltage output (when loaded) is higher, the PowerBook has some voltage regulation inside, the output voltage doesn't have to be exact
usually the main filter cap is always good, just replace the brown leaky ELNA ones.
the only problem you may find during the process is a corroded circuit board, just spend more time cleaning it and sealing it, if necessary.
As for current limiting, there should be a trimmer on top of the...
I think that they are universal, all the ones I have are 100-240, The only thing that changes is the mains AC plug, which is also a separate part from the housing.
There should be three or four version of this power supply:
-one has a huge DC plug (with 24W written on it), they don't have the...
Every time I open one, I always find corrosion, sometimes very little, sometimes a lot.
If there is too much corrosion I was the board to remove all of the junk and then I spray some "renewal plastifer", a protective plastic coating for PCBs
you can also use plastic spacers, my intention (in the video) was to apply pressure on the center portion on both sides, but it turns out that it you apply pressure on the corners too, it comes apart much quicker
is my browser or there is a problem on the forum?, rather than getting the player...
I recapped my IIci with radials, I think it is the easiest way if you don't have professional soldering gear and good skills.
if you are interested, I made a video about recapping a Mac LC, the board is different, but the process is the same:
-remove the old ones
-clean the board
-clean the...
My IIci also had the ticking problem when i got it, but when I recapped the logic board it came back to life.
I think you should replace the "big" axial caps on the logic board
Hi!
Unfortunately school took away the free time I had during the summer, but now I'm (almost) back, thanks to the Christmas holidays!
I thought it would have been interesting to share my latest find in a video!
This past Sunday, I picked up 3 PowerMac G4s (they all have problems) and a...
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