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I'm not even sure why we still have a landline tbh, but at least I can use for fun stuff like this

The RGB2HDMI project might be worth looking at for this: https://github.com/hoglet67/RGBtoHDMI

If it's likely to be not-that-jammed in there, you could try epoxying something to the screw and then backing it out.

@dosdude1 recently set up a dial-up ISP (https://dialin.doslabelectronics.com/), which is super cool. I decided to try connecting using my PB180's (running 7.1) internal Global Village modem - I can dial in and connect via PPP (sweet sweet music) but I can't load any websites. So I'm thinking I...

Welcome! The IIci is a lovely machine, great to see another one getting the attention it deserves. :) F1 is a fuse, schematics say SMD200-2 (so, 15V, 2A): Q3 is a transistor - the Bomarcs show the transistor symbol and the '3', but not 'Q3'... then uses its own internal reference (1A) that it...

4N35 - any electronics store should have them, they're pretty common and inexpensive.

I feel ya... welcome to hobby. :) We're dealing with really old devices that often have (ike this adapter) suffered damage, so it's not always going to go smoothly, and may not ever result in a fully functional device. Just about everyone in this hobby has several machines that just aren't...

I've recapped a couple 1.44 drives in a shotgun attempt to solve issues (which it didn't), but it did seem like the caps needed to be replaced - a bit of leakage, especially the two by the motor. Considering though these caps are so inexpensive and easy to replace, why not do it?

Even from the Australian sites? Hm. Well, I don't know much about Jaycar or Altronics, but they each seem to have several locations in Perth, worth a call.

There's a cap list for the 5140 in the first post of this thread: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/recapping-powerbook-100-series-7-5v-2a-ac-adapter.28/ That post links to suitable replacements at Mouser, so make note of the physical sizing as well when ordering from your vendor of choice...

OK - I'm not able to identify one specific model in the thread above, so what is the model adapter you have?

It will depend on the adapter model, so it's probably best to open yours up, remove and measure the caps.

Here are a couple schematics, which might help trace the issue... at least back to pin 25 of the CX-23077A or pin 9 of of the floppy connector -- depending on the drive you have there (as @max1zzz suggests, you might be getting an eject signal on that pin from the Plus instead of it being...

Welcome to the addiction! 😄 Personally, if the machine is working, I see no reason to fuss with having the owner open it up... I mean, is anything that could be in there potentially be a deal-breaker?

Only way to know for sure is to open it up and look

Yep. Desolder and replace with VL2330-1.

True true. The 140 schematic on bitsavers doesn't seem to include anything beyond than the mother and daughter boards (will look closer)... Still, should be doable (says me, the guy who is knows just enough to be dangerous).

Hot damn! Thanks for posting on this. Inspiring me to try this on a different 1xx PB (my 170 and 180 both have dim ccfl's) Also - thanks for posting to schematic... didn't realize it was available!

Ah good point to clarify --- is the system posting? I assumed the machine was not turning on and the clicking was the typical crowbar sound...

Clicking could be caused by any number / combination of failed components. First order of business is to recap then reassess. JDW's recapping walkthrough is very useful (just note that if your board is the international (240V) version, some of the caps will be different):