Search results

OK, as it should. Clocks then... as I wrote above in an edit to my last post (while you were responded, sorry about that).

What does the reset line do on power on / control-reset? On both the CPU and IOU (schematic, just in case: http://www.applelogic.org/files/IICSCHEMATIC.pdf) Edit - I'm seeing that you already swapped the IOU, but I guess check it again anyway. Otherwise, there are a bunch of clock checks...

Had to ask. When you say no boot, does that means no beep or drive seek?

Have you inspected / reseated all socketed chips? Have you tried booting without the keyboard and disk drive attached?

My first step would be to try a little lubrication / deoxidation to try and loosen up those switches and restore operation. If you have some Deoxit D5, you could try a light application of that to the stem of the switch (remove the cap first), and work the switch, a lot. Repeat if you think...

You are on a roll! Inspired by the 3D parts... something I want to learn how to do... Blender's installed, I have access to Prusa's... just need to do it!

That picture quality looks pretty good, but it's hard to tell from a still image... active matrix benefits are mostly seen in the refresh / response. Maybe ask the seller for a video? Or if they know it was bought with the active matrix upgrade?

Curious. It should be a direct replacement. What happens now when you put the Q12 from the other board in (not the BRX)? And/or what happens when you put the BR103 in the other board?

Yes

Frankly, you'd be better off sourcing a BR103 on eBay - there are lots them (search for br103 thyristor or scr)

Isn't the yellowing a symptom of dying / older backlights?

Sorry to come back to this so late - been away most of the last few weeks. So, no luck so far, but I haven't put much time into it... for a separate reason I 'upgraded' to OT, and the best I can get is using the auto PPP config in the TCP/IP control panel, which gets me connected but still no...

Possibly, among other things. Can you share a picture of the screen?

So I'm going to walk back what I wrote earlier after looking at the hinges on my Portable more closely.... it seems they can come apart, though with some difficulty - requires squeezing together the 'split' part of the insert that faces outward, you can see one side has a snap fit edge - I...

I'm wondering if the hinges just might need a thorough cleaning instead of the addition of lubricant... not really sure though, but I believe the hinges are just polycarbonate assemblies and didn't originally have any kind of lubrication. Maybe as a first step just flushing with IPA and working...

Welcome! 'Do no harm' is a laudable maxim, but I'm not sure it can realistically apply to our hobby lol ;) since using or working on these old machines in any way is likely going to harm them... especially the plastics in 100 series PB's. But I'm all for risking a little harm if the net benefit...

Depending on where you live, there may be someone who'll take it on as a project. @Amiga of Rochester for instance: https://amigaofrochester.com/ But others may - again, depending on where you live or how far you're willing to ship it. You could make another post asking for service in the...

That seems to be the way to go... based on @SuperSVGA, the zener you bought is the correct specs, just needs to 'made' to fit (and @MacUp72's like supports this).

Yeah, or some other means of extending the leads (or pads)... BUT - I'm really curious about the actual specs of the original part. In addition to neglecting to check the package size, I should have also looked more closely at the diode's specs, as the 13V rating seems high; I'd think it should...

oh snap - I didn't think to take a measurement before linking :oops: