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Thanks!

Mac 128 - this thread has covered so many different things, I don't think it could be hijacked... Update on my Mac 512K: Still no luck with the clock. I did de/resolder the RTC chip. No luck. I purchased a 512Ke on eBay (arrived Friday) and swapped logic boards. Clock worked. So it confirms...

What is the difference between the 3 128K ROM sets ? Pina writes that there were three versions. You can determine the version by pushing the interrupt button and typing "DM400000" without the quotes at the ">" prompt Top row - top of the second and third columns - the version numbers work...

Mac128 - that's it. Any multimeter reading using an ohm meter? Positive/red further away from RTC... I get nothing - resistance, continuity.... Here is a picture of the part (JDW's picture off of Flickr) - I circled it in Red: http://www.flickr.com/photos/33624199@N08/3277349640/sizes/o/...

My C16 is on the opposite side of the board from the reset switch... I'm not good at identifying these small parts. My ohm meter was able to get a reading from all identical diode/resistors (not sure which this is)- as long as the posative and negative test pins (from the multimeter) were on...

Ok Mac128... My multimeter says C16 on the logic board is toast (it looks it too). Everything else that I tested around the RTC (including the battery checks out). What is the replacement part number/description for C16 on the logic board? - it is a diode... Where can I get a replacement...

Mac128 - you're correct. It was C16.... NOT R16 - thanks for asking. I was at work. I'll need to look more closely at it this weekend. it appears to be damaged - but it's hard to tell. No burn marks, etc.

Yup! What I had on hand :beige: Lumpy

JDW: A few comments: 1) I have experienced no collateral damage thus far. That is to say, no logos, screened on labels or serial number labels have been harmed or faded. I did remove the square Apple logo from my HD20 case by popping it out of the case (push from the hole behind it). I...

Hmmmm - searched for "RTC" already and found nothing of any great help. Searching on "Real and Time and Clock" - nothing jumping out at me in the search results that I see...... I'll keep poking around. Charlie

Mac 128 - Thanks for updating your post on resetting the PRAM. So far, no luck via the reset method.... I've tried booting from System 1 (via Disk) and System 6.0.8 (HD20) - the clock settings and date settings revert to default when closing the control panel or moving to another setting...

JDW - excellent spreadsheet. We both were mentioned in the latest retromaccast: http://cdn4.libsyn.com/retromaccast/RetroMacCast_103__Sonata.m4a Have you given the de-yellowing process a try?

512K: My original analog board did not always produce the "whup, whup" noise - which is why I did not focus on that - it generally started and ran fine but degraded after a minute or so and then would sometimes make that noise if I tried to restart. The replacement analog board consistantly...

Update on getting the 512K up and running. To recap - I received the 512K and it would start/run for about a minute and then shut down with a buzzing noise followed by a repeated "whup", "whup" cycling noise. I removed the case cover and found that flexing the analog board would get momentary...

I've been so impressed by the non-damaging cleaning effect of this process that I am going to do my Mac 512K's case as well - it is slightly darker on the left side - something that is now noticable as it sits on top of the very nice/clean beige HD20. I have a large clear tub - I'm going to try...

Here are more examples of de-yellowing that I've done per my prior post in this thread. Today I put my HD20 case in the H202/Oxy solution and left it outside for 6 hours. Note that I actually used 1/2 water and 1/2 3% Hydrogen Peroxide solution. You can really cut the H202 and get good...

Equill - thank for this explanation - I did figure out that holding the iron away to heat up and then going back in helped...

JDW: Below is a pic of the exact items that I used - along with a link to the forum that discusses this approach. Here is exactly what I did: 1) In a plastic tupperware - poured the 3% hydrogen peroxide solution up to a level that could fully submerge the mouse. 2) Added (more or less) one...

Tried it today along with Mac128's non-resistor discharge tool. I'm feeling pretty good about not getting whacked by high voltage anymore... Question: I just purchased a new (grounded) solder tool and a desolder bulb/sucker thingy. I can't for the life of me desolder some joints - the solder...

Don't worry Charlieman - if I do, I'll post all the disks where we can get to them. Nice! Thanks for that tip - I happen to have those things available. I'll hold off on the flyback replacement to see if others chime in on this...