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Try adjusting the G2/screen control. It's on the left side of the analog board, same as the flyback but closer up to the front of the case.

Red part could be an indicator of switch weighting (i.e. heavier force required to activate the spacebar) but ISTR that the arrow keys on these systems have two actions, in other words pressing the key harder makes the cursor move faster? If so, the red stuff may signify that.

The 620uF cap generally doesn't fail in these. If you do replace it in the future, be aware that any appropriate replacement you can find (which are generally going to be 680uF rather than 620uF) will most likely require new holes to be drilled into the board for it to fit.

Interested in seeing the video of it "glitching out" but it's almost certainly a power supply issue rather than a flyback one. Flyback failures are rare in SEs and SE/30s; generally speaking it's the airflow-starved systems like the 128-512k-Plus, or much further down the road, the G3 iMacs...

That resistor and the two diodes near it run extremely hot even under normal use and tend to darken like that. If it fails it'll manifest itself as display problems. How bad was the cap leakage before you cleaned the motherboard? If it was in rough shape you may need to start inspecting the...

When CircuitBored is able to do another run of CircuitTalk cards, you may be able to snag one and do file sharing over LocalTalk from any number of G4 PowerMacs (an OS9-capable Quicksilver or MDD would probably be your best bet with regards to using the modern internet, although anything past...

That ought to be good enough. The term power on these systems is usually supplied through a diode, which has a forward voltage drop of about 0.5V (actually implies that the +5V from the analog board is running a tad high at ~5.3V, although that's not high enough to cause problems). At any rate...

Doesn't sound like you're missing anything obvious with the hard disk/SCSI2SD. It's possible that the sound and/or SCSI issues are a result of the analog board needing a recap, although serious trace rot in the audio section of these logic boards isn't unheard of either. Bear in mind that the...

For the NuBus-less board, you might inspect/replace the 74ALS240 at UH1 (I became a first-time IIci owner a couple weeks ago and on mine UH1 was totally chewed up by the cap right next to it).

You're correct in it being an array of ferrites, LP1 is there to suppress EMI on the microphone input. You may want to try finding the Color Classic schematics instead, they ought to be available online, and the audio section is almost identical to that of the 575. LP1 will not be the cause for...

Personally, if I could only keep one Mac I'd go for my 8500 (bought it from a fellow forum member a few years back, in fact). Have it running with Rage 128 (I think? been a while...), IDE, and USB card, and the case has held up okay except for one drive bezel + the PCI card retainers. Love the...

Since you're planning on upgrading the processor anyways, any of the 7300/7500/7600 desktop machines would probably suit your needs (the main difference between each is the stock processor speed). The 7200 would be out since it only takes an exceedingly rare processor upgrade, different than the...

I'm not sure why you're insinuating that the advice over here is unreliable, seeing as the negative conversation regarding your product consistently comes only from the same couple of voices. That said, I'd imagine those voices would be less negative towards BlueSCSI were it not for your record...

Glad to see you got this Classic running again, there really must've been a demon in it! The BYT03/EGP30D are fast recovery diodes with a reverse recovery time on the order of a few tens of nanoseconds, but standard silicon diodes like the 1N5408 have a reverse recovery time at least an order...

Do not, under any circumstances, interrupt the safety ground on the line cord! The fact that the Classic seems to work better without it connected is a fluke. As bibilit said, replace the optoisolator. CNY17-2 may be suitable. If the Amazon capacitor kit is particularly crappy, it may also be...

Some amount of digital noise is to be expected on these systems but gauging how much is "normal" can be difficult. If the EMI shield/connector shields are severely rusted or missing altogether, the noise will be significantly worse. The fingers on the EMI shield must make good contact with all...

Glad to see that you fixed the lines. The humming from the flyback is definitely not normal. The arcing is most likely due to a bad flyback or bad focus/G2 network on the analog board, although it could still be a bad tube. What I would do first: try setting up the Color Classic somewhere else...

The fact that you get full deflection on the screen suggests that the yoke is good. Avoid moving it unnecessarily on these displays, otherwise you might throw off the convergence/geometry. The logic board may be fine but the monitor side of the analog board isn't necessarily OK. Either there's...

Take the neckboard off the back of the CRT and see if you can remove the shielding. Make absolutely sure there's no debris/crud/burn marks anywhere on the neck board, especially around the CRT socket. Also check around the base/pins of the tube itself. You may want to use a multimeter to check...

For the horizontal lines: since the analog board has been recapped, you will need to redo most of the picture/geometry adjustments. Apple's own service guides explained how to do this step-by-step, go to the "Adjustments" section in the Color Classic guide. The lines on your machine will most...