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THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!  That did work.  Now I feel like bit of an idiot for overlooking something so obvious.   However, that little bit did break off.  Is that something I should be worried about?  Could the anode come loose or cause damage?  Or am I OK now, and can I finally sit back and enjoy...

So I might be SOL here, but I'm going to ask anyway (and hope for a miracle).  In an attempt to replace the fan in my SE, I detached the anode from the CRT so I could work on the board.  Everything went well.  The new fan works.  However, when I was reattaching the CRT, the tip from one of the...

Never mind.  I must have knocked the resisters I soldered loose when I was cleaning the flux off the board.  That will teach me not to check my work!

Spoke too soon.  Now I have no sound and no video.

Update: First, Elemenoh, You were absolutely right!!!  I managed to get some 682 and 204 resisters, soldered them in (lost one since I suck at micro soldering) recapped the board, and plugged it in.  It powered on and booted, but no sound.  So I checked continuity and found a broken trace...

Thank you!  I wasn't sure because of the font, but after comparing it to the pictures of my board, I think you're right. I think I'm going to check with my local electronics store first, but thank you for the link.  Now, one way or the other I'm getting my LC back!   :-)  

I have checked them out, but I've had some trouble identifying the product I need.  I think the markings on the 582 indicate a value of 5.8 kΩ, however, the images on their site are unmarked.  Also, they didn't seem to have any stock from the results that came up.  I also checked out Mouser with...

Thanks for pointing them out.  I actually hadn't before, but from what I could see, they, unfortunately, don't have them.

So sorry for the lack of update, but I've been looking for the replacement resisters for a while now with no luck.  Does anyone know where I can find 582 and 204 surface mount resisters?  The former seems to be the hardest to locate.  My local electronics store has the 204s, but I'd prefer to...

A sad update :-( First I wanted to say thank you so much to everyone who has tried to help me.  However, I must regretfully report that this is not going to be a salvageable Macintosh after all.  The corrosion to the analog board was far more severe than I had originally thought.  Several...

Thank you both for this.  I'm going to go over the entire board now and see if I can't get this thing to finally work!

The part number for the board is 630-0395.  I Tried using the 630-0525 (220v international) as a reference since that's the most commonly documented, but it didn't work.  This isn't the first time I've run into an issue like this, where all the documentation for an American computer is for the...

I'm attempting to recap my Mac Classic's analog board and seem to have lost track of what goes where.  I'm not recapping the whole board just yet, only the ones that were obviously bulging or leaking for the moment as they're the ones that were the most obvious and problematic.  I've managed to...

Thanks.  I think I can bridge that between the resisters.  If I had to lose a pad, at least it was that one. Yeah, I noticed that too.  I've been scrubbing this thing under a magnifying glass with alcohol and q-tips for a while now.  It looks a lot better, but it's clear that the caps leaked...

Thanks for this.  I've been Googling images and every picture I've found shows those resisters populated, but I was never able to clearly see their markings.  Now at least I know what to get.  My guess is that they are necessary and may have fallen off from corrosion, or they weren't as secure...

So I'm trying to recap my LCIII motherboard.  I managed to remove all of the old capacitors, clean all the pads (all of which survived) but I just noticed that the resisters at R1 and R2 are missing, and one of the pads at R1 seems to have fallen off.  The pads on R2 are still there and I...

I've been working on an Apple //e mother board for a while with no luck.  It worked when I got it, and all the ICs are socketed.  So I tried to use it to diagnose another malfunctioning board.  Unfortunately it didn't work, and when I reseated all the original ICs it stopped working all together...

Short answer, No.  I tried this with an ESC key and found that not only the key itself was too tall for the //c board, but the orientation of the switch was vertical on that particular key as opposed to horizontal on the //c.  I'm not sure if that holds true for the option key, but in either...

So I have two Apple 3.5 inch Unidisk drives. One works fine, but the eject motor doesn't push the disc out all the way, but I can live with that. The other won't work at all. When I connect it to my //e and insert a boot disc, the light flashes, then nothing. I've tracked the issue to the analog...

So I take it that my power supply is the current issue, and needs to be recapped ASAP.  But I shouldn't wait too long on the motherboard since that's going to be a problem sooner or later, and it would be better to deal with it before it does.