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I usually just upload images to imgur.com, then copy the image URL and paste it into the img tag on my forum post.

It's not a bad idea to recap the analog board. Good chance the caps have begun leaking by now. You may also want to check for cracked solder joints, too. How exactly do you plan to clean the CRT? You can wipe down the face of it, no problem. If you're planning to clean the entire CRT body, I...

I just did mine. Used tantalums to replace leaky ones. PM if you're interested in having me recap it for you. I'm in the US.

That's a good way to stress the solder pads. I'm thinking you got lucky.

You cut above the plastic, then carefully remove the cap remnant and plastic base. Don't pull up on the entire cap as you cut because you'll risk lifting a pad.

$5 says it's a Maxell. ????

Ewww... that board is ugly. Think you can save it?

You're certain you'll only ever use them once?

Runs off the bus in my SE/30.

Seat of the pants test seems to show better performance with SCSI2SD.

That's awesome. I'm always happy to see an SE/30 brought back to life.

I would then suspect a cold solder joint in that area.

Ah, c'mon. It'll be exciting!

Meaning something non-conductive.

I would suspect a cold/cracked joint somewhere. There are a few connections that are the usual suspects, and I think where the yoke connects to the analog board is one of them. It wouldn't hurt to touch it up with fresh solder.

It sounds like your current one is pretty jacked. I would just source another one and save yourself the time of mucking around with the broken one.

Bwahahaha! I guess I forgot the correlation.

Should be labeled RP2 on the board. It's near the programmer and reset buttons.

Cough cough.

I was able to reach out to him several months ago to get parts for my SE/30. Sometimes I had to press him for a response after waiting a few days. I agree his system is different.