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I have two 3rd party 800 drives and a numeric pad that I am going to put with it too. I just need to get some files on to the HD20 for making my lisa disks, the first way I tried did not work so I will have to try some others.

well I ordered a non working one, I am getting one with just keys that need repaired (foam replaced and clean the contacts) so I do not have to worry about the rom not working. and some reference cards. it should be easy to do with the web pages I have found to help with lisa keyboard repairs.

I just wrote him back to see if I could get one with a working rom, but NF keys. I may be more willing to do that much If I just have to fix the keys, but the rom would be hard to repair. also asked if the reference cards were included. wow he gets back to me fast, he siad he would get one...

I actually wrote him earlier before his auction and decided to wait, I do not want to pay $71 for a keyboard with shipping and then have to fix it. specially if tis the intel chip with the rom on it. But if I can not find another one in a while I may resort to one. I have gotten other parts...

no it was a sealed service part (had to take it out of the box to fit in the shipping one with the keyboard) I told him I would feel bad using it but I got such a good deal I could not say no and he said he just wanted it to go somewhere where it would get used.

I found a kind person to send me one for a good price with a keyboard and mouse. not nearly that much. the ones on ebay are way over priced. I was waiting for a mac plus to take one out of but a brand new one is even better.

I actually fixed the drive today. I used silicone lubricant (the store was closed to get the lithium white lube that is suggested) but I cleaned it first (with alc.) then lubed it with the silicone cleaner/lube spray I had. I worked it in until it became mechanically sound. I also replaced...

it does seem to fade slowly still but does stay on. I have a feeling its just the brightness knob as I said above. I have some knobs from the IIc monitor maybe one will work.

YEAH :) STUPID $3 MULTIMETER, IT WORKS WELL FOR THAT MUCH.

Thank you, I am still going to get a new analog board as a backup since all these parts were donated from other machines, or made.

I put some more caps (noticed one was a bit swollen at the top not enough to notice unless I looked real close) I had in it, took out the transistor and tested it again it was good, (even the transistor tester that said it was good worked so it must not have been connecting properly) re did...

ah ok I should have figure. yeah It is a cheap multimeter has worked every other time I have used it, but who knows. I will recheck it with another meter that has a diode check. Well its when I turn it on so I can not see it, but the other day I had it opened and discharged the crt and it was...

I removed the transistor completely and used it as the instructions say to and it had no response at all not even a blip, I used it to test a good one the day before so I know it works and its only 4 days old (the multimeter). It is odd though my board did not have a connector to the Collector...

I replaced the two 100uf 200v caps. and reinstalled Q11 then started it up and It sparked just like before but dimmed slowly. I also noted that the brightness knob on the front seemed bad and would flicker brighter and then darker as it faded slowly, I also noted that the sides were waving in...

http://www.moyerelectronics.com/ seems to agree that ECG379 or NTE379 (they have a sheet for this one) is the replacement. they have a nice cross reference for ecg and nte, I had been looking for one this is very helpful. I may just stick with buying a new analog board since I do not have one...

Multimeter with transistor tester. it worked to correctly test the bad one in my lisa. yeah I was confused because I mentioned the Q11: 7A, 4-500V, 50W, 18MHz up top from your pdf as you said. Id rather use one I have here to see if that is whats wrong for sure then have to order something.

thank you I might have to get that book.

it does not seem like Q11 is working when I test it. The one I removed is C2810 the sheet says 2SC2810 and Q11: 7A, 4-500V, 50W, 18MHz. I do not have either one here is there another equivalent that might work so I can for sure tell if that is the problem. I wish I had the transistor...

I re soldered what I could, and it did the same thing as last time I turned in on after being unplugged for a but. When plugged in then turned on it makes a crackle then I can see the screen come on then slowly fade off and turning it off and on will not bring the screen back also when turning...

you know I read about the solder joins and did not even think about it, but that would make a lot of sense since it seems to only spark when moved around to much. I will redo the solder on the board and see if it is better or worse.