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None of that should look like that (as in, the solder being dull/crusty). You have a fair amount of corrosion damage - those caps need to be replaced, the board cleaned, and I suspect capacitor electrolyte has crept up into the sound jack and oxidized the contacts, so that the switch part of the...
By now, I have enough experience in all of them that I can probably go in, swap the HDD and be back out with the machine fully closed in <30min, but... Getting here wasn't enjoyable, nor does it make the occurrences when that becomes needed any less miserable still :P
I haven't looked at the hybrid's internals as I don't have a portable myself, but any work on a ceramic substrate (not just the Portable's hybrid) requires silver solder - conventional solder alloys (i.e. chemically rips out) the traces right out of the ceramic, making the whole thing useless...
Q20 is behaving normally in that what's observed at the drain matches what's on the gate, as are Q14 and Q15 if their gates are being pulled low by the hybrid's pin 41 - 12V is generated by VR1 after being fed battery voltage via Q14/15. If Q14/15 were to only pass 5V, their gates would probably...
Polymer caps don't leak and last longer (the datasheets will often tell you so). Series SVP is indeed polymer, so you can leave that alone.
The display connector should've come out with a firm enough yoink, but eh, if you managed to work around it, no worries.
Essentially everything on the secondary side (within dotted line) that's a filter/decoupling cap (i.e. directly connected to a rail going to an output wire).
The 2200uF, 330uF, 220uF for sure, possibly the 82uF and 10uF as well. They all look to belong to the same series, often printed on the...
They come by default with phase change material, a hard-to-remove gunk. It is a better thermal interface than most pastes, but only if not disturbed. I always clean it up (acetone does the job) and replace with Arctic Silver. The phase change material is worthless as soon as board and heatsink...
Having had it fed with 6.6V is a bit concerning - well past the threshold at which a fair few things would fail. How long did it run like that? Even now, having +5V at 5.47 puts it way past normal tolerance (5.25V), and close to the 5.5V max at which a fair few parts are rated to. That does seem...
I've never seen a panel fail like that. I'd check that you have 5V and contrast voltages at the display after the failure occurs. Smells like latent cap damage.
Alcohol and qtips won't get the crud from under the caps. Anything Apple of that era with surface mount electrolytics is a lost cause if not recapped. If you leave it like that, it'll just keep corroding itself (worsened by current running thru the cap goo-infested areas) and eventually stop...
You have bigger problems than a dead hard drive if all you did to that Classic II was qtips and rubbing alcohol. 2.5" IBM drives tend to nuke themselves at the slightest suggestion of unstable voltage.
Interesting to see the sound-architecture byte includes a value for AWACs. Anyway, there's our answer - it's probably 00 on the Cube, whereas for sound to be enabled it should be 01? (Given 'daca' is what it'd need to work)
Maybe.
They haven't been leaked.
A picture would help more than the designators, here. Presumably 100nF. Or maybe 1uF and 10nF, or some similar combo.
Assume you mean 0.1uF, but no. Thru-hole parts don't belong on SMD pads.
Running fast, noise-sensitive signals unshielded is never bound to work well - here's a visual representation of what happens (here with testing if my Clamshell was still alive by using the wrong LCD panel - I just needed to see something, anything). SD on a BlueSCSI probably runs at about...
An ODPR is just an SL-enhanced DX/2 set to ignore its CLKMUL pins - it's always internally strapped at 2x. An ODP is a 487-pattern chip and not relevant here.
Pinouts really do change between SX and DX - pin C14 is NC on the SX, becomes FERR# on the DX, pin A15 is NMI on the SX, becomes IGNNE#...
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