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DSTN panels are driven as two logical halves, typically upper and lower, but I am not aware of there being a(n externally accessible) split between left/right halves. This feels like a bad panel, and it also feels like it might be fixable. A datasheet would help make sure you're not missing some...

Yup - not my first time around the block :P both PVR and compatible took the edits to nvramrc Quite possibly. I've been wondering if editing BOOT-SCRIPT to remove the DO-QUIESCE would lead to more useful debugging info. Never really tinkered that far.

30mA is way too high. Those original brick batteries are 800mAh, so you'd see one last roughly a day. The 68HC05E1 datasheet tells us that, running from a 32.768kHz oscillator, such as is the case for Cuda, supply current at 5V is 100 microampere typical, 160 worst-case. That's off by two orders...

At first I thought it might actually be a checksum issue, but racking my brains here, I think DO-QUIESCE is supposed to be the last thing OF does after it finds a valid boot image and hands control over to it. I don't remember anymore, my favorite programming language is solder anyway.

Bawww. I tried. This is after spoofing machine and CPU properties, attempting boot from USB - seems it simply didn't like the file.

That's minty compared to the 190cs I once made the mistake of buying.

@ImmortanJoe what sort of resistance do you see between 0120 pin 7 (aka battery +ve) and ground? Might be wise to compare to the 7300. Edit: on a trayloader iMac G3, the only Cuda-thing I have handy, it's close to 1Mohm.

What I'm saying is the hardware test doesn't know the difference between a physically faulty VRAM chip, a poor connection, or an issue within the GPU itself (say, a dead data line) that prevents correct access to the VRAM. Both are rated at 4.5ns and therefore capable of the same access speed.

That is based on the assumption that the issue is "VRAM is faulty". Spares should already come with solder balls, and as such, no reballing is needed - you get the old chip off, clean the GPU interposer, solder the new one on. Heck, ideally one would do both in one go in this case. That leaves...

Hello, and welcome! *sigh*. Fleabay? Anyway, shame. Onwards. The analog board has a fair amount of heavy components. You'd do well to check how 5V is doing on both machines - easily accessible via the ADB or floppy ports. Also, inspecting for cracked solder joints. Hard disk activity, as in...

Keyboard power means CUDA/Egret, whatever the hell the 68HC05 in the 5200 is, is alive. Switching that between batteries and the PSU's 5V standby (trickle) rail is done by the small SOIC-8 IC marked 0120 (U28, LS1176 in the schem). From the 9600 schematic that's floating around the website...

I briefly looked at what it would take to duplicate a Curta in metal and... Nope. Should try a printed one someday.

Oh, cameras too? I am beginning to suspect the people on this forum might have a hobby overlap thing. Mostly I keep to newer 35mm SLRs. Last thing I refurbished was a Praktica MTL3.

I will test this on a OF-poked AlBook, if only just for laughs.

You're jumping the gun here. It's probably an obsolete part, I'm not sure if there's any modern alternatives with the same footprint, but it's probably also salvageable, and, at the risk of sounding annoying, I'm gonna once again hit on the key that you have corrosion issues to address first...

One of us! One of us! One of us! It's also on my list of hobbies, but not with the same intensity. I've only fixed a few, mostly because I don't have space for more tools, nor do wish to pay what Bergeon charges for the good ones.

I suspect the white residue is more leftover flux from when the board was soldered eons ago than it is minerals. There's no harm in leaving it as is. Vinegar would help neutralize capacitor electrolyte (which is alkaline), so you could bathe the board in it after removing the caps, followed by a...

Hm... Understandable if you don't wanna name and shame, but who on ebay did you buy that from? Or at least geographical location...

Wow, RivaTuner. That was forgotten somewhere on a dusty shelf of my brain.

Ooof. I hope you ended up not paying much. Soaking it in IPA isn't gonna do anything here. The whole thing will need to be serviced. If you don't have experience with surface-mount rework, this isn't the best place to learn. Anyway, ideally, while the board is out for capacitor replacement, the...