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Actually, I found the original drives that came out of the enclosures which have the appropriate header for the ID selector switch. What I was hoping to use the enclosure for is testing some 2.5" SCSI drives. I have the correct 50-pin-to-34-pin adapter board, and I believe have the ID jumpers...

I have some lightweight synthetic air-tool oil that should probably work. I'll have to crack it open, clean out the 33 years of accumulated dust and see if I can bring it back to life. I also discovered in another box what appears to be the Rodime drive from another HD20. Well, I guess it may...

Anyone happen to have a service manual for the M2115 external SCSI HDD? I have two of them I've reassembled from pieces and can't seem to get them to work. The problem is that I can't seem to figure out where the scsi ID switch connects. I think it should connect to the drive itself, but can't...

Not to hijack the thread, but what "rear piece" are you looking for? Something external (the I/O panel) or something internal?

Actually, on further inspection, there appears to be a cap (C9) missing from the board. That's probably why it won't power on.

Trying to test my CC's original board, I popped some RAM and VRAM into it and slid it into the chassis. Flipped the power switch, then hit the power button on the keyboard and... nothing. Crickets. Waited a few more minutes and tried the power button again, still nothing. Thing is, I don't have...

More of a discovery than a conquest, but apparently at some point I acquired an HD20. Just found it in a box this morning. Seems to spin up (sounds like the drive spinning), but is not recognized by my Classic II. I think this might be the one my dad bought shortly after he got the 512k in 1984...

Sent you a PM...I may have a board for you.

I'm hatching a plan to keep 'em both, but it looks like the SE/30 definitely has some capacitor issues (see below). My solder-fu is a bit rusty, so I'm not sure I want to do it myself or farm it out. Anyone know what the going rate is for an SE/30 board? And can I assume the caps on the...

Here's the front of it. There are RJ45 and RG58 coax connections on the lower end. The cable end is 8-pin LocalTalk and the coiled wire connects to the ADB port for power and has an ADB passthrough port as well.

No serial connection. AAUI on the end of the cable, two RJ-45 jacks on the other end. Kind of a neat idea and a bit easier/cheaper than getting a hub or having another network jack installed. The other one (Mac/PB adapter) apparently is a LocalTalk > Ethernet bridge, powered by ADB. 

Found a few Farallon ethernet bits, just wondering if these are commonplace or somewhat rare. EtherWave AAUI transceiver EtherMac Mac/PB Adapter

Also, have not had any capacitors replaced. TBH, I've been out of the scene long enough that I don't recall them being an issue back in the day (which they weren't, I guess, since it's an age thing). I know the logic board in the CC is in OK shape (at least, there aren't any obviously leaking...

It might be. The other half just sees piles of stuff. As long as the piles get smaller, she may be appeased. Plus, these are "compact" Macs, so I may just have to be creative about where I stick 'em. Finally, the old 14" displays I've got take up way more room and really serve no purpose to me...

I retrieved a Color Classic from a stack of discarded Macs some time ago (~2002-ish) and in the same stack, grabbed an LC 575 (which turned out to have a cracked CRT) and a box of miscellaneous parts that included a full (non LC) 68040. A year or so later, I did the VGA mod to the analog board...

Tried 3 different bricks, all of which work with my PB 170. Probably the internal board. Not thrilled with the prospect of opening it up since I'm sure the plastics are quite brittle by now. Did not try that...will give it a shot before anything invasive. Thanks!

Unearthed my box of old Powerbooks yesterday and tried starting them up. One that did not respond well is a PB180c (the only one I have of that model). Basically, I plug in the AC adapter, wait 30 seconds or so and then press the power button. There's the startup chime, and the screen lights for...