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I was working on an LC II board I was selling, and fired it up one more time before putting it in a box. Nothing, just a blank screen, not even the chime, it must have spontaneously died overnight. I got this board with a ROM installed backwards, which I discovered from the smell of burning dust...

Certainly compared to the one I picked up in a lot. I have added a new color to the spectrum: Commodore Brown

Yep, look in the third picture. It's hard to make out what they are, and they are put away ATM, so I will have to look later.

Someone told me last week that they had some old Mac stuff and wanted to know if I would take it. I said I would, no matter if it's new or old. Today, I get this, and she said she has more! The screen just shows a small horizontal line, so the sweep circuit might be messed up. Not bad...

It will still work even if it is rated at 385VDC instead of 385WV Aren't they the same thing?

The PSUs take 100-240VAC, so why would there be a 385V cap in there? Seems overkill...

I am going to start replacing the line filter cap (big round one) in TDK PSUs every time I do a recap. I see it is rated at 180uF 385WV..? What is a suitable replacement from Mouser? I ask because I have no idea what WV is.

Just keep using it? Isn't the capacitor there for a reason?

Didn't think those were too big a worry yet, since there is no electrolyte to leak out of a film/ceramic cap. The line filter, I will start replacing in the future.

I got these from my latest Mouser order. A few make a tight fit, but there are no issues with getting them in or getting the case on. I would use Panasonic, because they are good and priced well. Capacitor list for TDK PSU: (does not include line filter)   3x 1000uF 10V 10mm diameter 16mm...

I have seen some of the Nichicon caps leaking as well. I would say it's best to replace every cap, though it is not necessary to replace the line filter cap. If you want caps, digikey and Mouser are great. I use Mouser because they accept PayPal and are located in Texas, so I usually get stuff...

For those still wondering, I recapped the board to no avail. It turns out a ROM was installed one pin over, after that, it fired right up! https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/24036-color-classic-boot-no-videono-boot/

Popped a stick of RAM in a random socket of each one (shouldn't matter which socket if there is only one stick, right?) and they all just run their fans at full blast. If I remember correctly, the solder joints on the logic board crack and need to be reflowed? I thought that was mostly graphics...

Pretty much the first personal computer ever made. http://oldcomputers.net/altair-8800.html

I would guess there are two heatsinks with G5 printed on them? I will check later, but I am pretty sure they all had dual G5 heatsinks.

Pros..? oops... No RAM, no drives. I can probably get some cheap or find them in my parts box. Unless you are talking about CPUs, since some Pros came with dual CPUs, but did the PM G5s come with a dual CPU configuration?

I got an email last week from my electronic surplus shop, I almost skipped over it, but I figured they may be having another sale or something. It turns out, they are retiring the business and will be closing in 6 months, crap! Everything is 20% off, and the discounts will only be greater over...

How would I check the resistance (like what points should I hook a multimeter to) and what should the resistance be?

Woah, what's with that Plus? Transparent case mod?

This would be great to put a TV in, maybe put a CRT TV of the same size for better effect. Either a TV or a modern computer in an awesome vintage case!