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Yeah, I think a mac mini would be perfect for this. I think you could even manage to do it without hacking the case because the board is low profile enough. Power/video could be taken from the existing backplane, and a solid state drive could be laid to the side or on top of the board. 

I'm curious how the vinyl dye will hold up with use. It's really not that durable of a finish in my experience and doesn't penetrate very deep. I've used it on CDROM/floppy faceplates in the past. 

It's very easy to do with an arduino. I have documented PS/2 to NeXT conversion here: http://www.asterontech.com/Asterontech/next_ps2_mouse.html Everything will be the same for the mac or Atari except the pinout at the computer side.

Usually serial cables have a thicker insulation which is not ideal for a mouse. 

Does anyone have a suggestion on where to get the 9 conductor cable that is as light and flexible as what you would find on a typical mouse? 

Yes, it works vey well.

The removing and replacing of the power cord temporarily fixing the issue I think points to the power input board. It's been a long time since I worked on one of these but I recall that being a common-ish problem at the time. 

Yes, soldering directly to it should be fine. if it's too small then scrape some of the solder mask away using a small flat head screw driver. Perfectionists might cringe, but it's electrically sound. 

Note that there is a via right next to the pad. I would just solder the capacitor across that via and the remaining pad and call it a day.

Use a liquid flux and reflow the solder. If the solder appears chunky then wick it away and apply fresh.

That is true, but it is a 0 ohm, so it's just one solder bridge when you want to do the VGA mod.

I seem to remember just removing a resistor fixes this. I never did the video upgrade to my classic and it boots OS's before 8 just fine. I think this site details what I'm talking about. http://www.geocities.jp/hirotac_01/all-of-ccii/fix-id.html

The drive itself should be a Sony CDU561-25. I have a teardown guide for a next drive that is very similar here: http://www.asterontech.com/Asterontech/next_cdrom_refurb.html On your drive the inject motor will be connected by a ribbon cable to the logic board which will have a layout that is...

I just had one of these apart today to scavenge parts for another drive. There is a -very- good chance the capacitors on the logic board have leaked. There are surface mounts on the main logic board and on the board attached to the front bezel. 

Also you need the correct ROM revision to be able to use an ADB keyboard and mouse with that machine (v.74). Most people prefer the non-ADB though, so if you already have the right soundbox you may or may not care.  

You sir, just won the lottery. We currently estimate around 300 of those machines ever making it out of the factory. Excellent score!

Those MO drives took 10 years off my life I'm sure. Probably -the- most stubborn devices I've ever worked with. I just finished working on 15 of them with only 7 working at the end. 

If you have any issues, come over to the nextcomputers.org forums. Do you have a soundbox and accessories yet? You'll need a non-adb version for this cube. (ADB is possible in the extremely unlikely case it's a turbo). Also if it doesn't have a power supply with revision 983 you need the...

Wow, that's a good find! Dimensions are getting tough to find.