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Horz Scan Rate: 61 KHz Vertical Scan Rate: 68 Hz Resolution: 1280x1024 (NeXT uses 1120x832) provided you are trying to drive the above mode, I agree it’s likely your adapter. 

You can use a low melting point solder with a standard Iron. You apply on all 4 sides and then drag the iron around until the chip is removed. Be sure to clean it all when done. Here is an example...

Wow, this is very cool! Will the hard drive emulation work in parallel with the ethernet as a separate SCSI device?

That's some dedication. I personally would call this one dead, but here is a collection of schematics: https://archive.org/details/Macintosh68kSchematics By the time you locate the parts/pay for shipping you may be better off finding another classic board. 

There are tabs along the sides that need to be pressed in. 

This is a common problem with caps: http://www.asterontech.com/Asterontech/next_cdrom_refurb.html

Says me, but I guess you're welcome to disagree. I had mixed results before switching to a Crest. That aside, even a cheap Chinese model is probably a lot to justify for a single repair. 

An ultrasonic sized for logic boards is probably too expensive for a single use. You need a sweeping frequency model to do any real work and those are priced pretty high. I would drench it in liquid flux and apply new solder. Then just clean with alcohol.  That should fix a localized area...

Is it just getting power from the bus? I don't see anything about connectivity inside the apple II. 

The ceramics themselves should be totally fine to use. There are debatable thoughts about the long term effects, but for this use they are functionally equivalent. The solder job looks ugly though. I would also suspect that the board was not properly cleaned. 

I've used a few o-rings stacked with success. I have links here: http://www.asterontech.com/Asterontech/Quantum_ProDrive_40s_Restore.html

@bushok The connector should be fine. Just clean it with a qtip.  @techknight  Yes, the original SC drive is way more complicated to work on. So many connectors... 

The flat ribbon cable is the only one to be really concerned with breaking. The yellow cables just use a firm grip and rock side-to-side a bit. 

Yeah, the black discoloration on the back side is due to the capacitors leaking. The board otherwise looks in OK shape, so you probably have a high chance of success. 

I've done about a dozen of these and only had one bad laser assembly so I guess I'm bias in the other direction. The good news is it only takes a few minutes open it up and confirm. 

It could be the laser, but I think is more likely caps on the logic board. See my guide here: http://www.asterontech.com/Asterontech/next_cdrom_refurb.html

Awesome work! Count me in for one of each. Any interest in selling kits or bare boards?

In this case I imagine their production costs are probably really high selling fully populated boards. Maybe in the future they may consider selling bare boards, but unless you have the parts on hand that quickly gets expensive as well. A team of 4 essentially recreating the entire machine...

Wow this is really cool! The direction you're headed this could easily become an all-in-one solution for any vintage machine. 

http://www.asterontech.com/Asterontech/next_cdrom_refurb.html