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I recapped everything that was electrolytic capacitors. Exact same microfarad ratings, and +105 celcius rated (higher quality caps). There's not a single cracked solder joint, I've been through the entire machine for hours checking for dried/cracked joints. I did find some initially, but...

Is this normal? My SE/30 is recapped and everything looks good.. Even the PSU is recapped. I get noisy scanlines that runs downwards when there's heavy motor activity (hard drive/floppy drive head moving). The aspect ratio of the screen is stable, it doesn't change. It's just a scanline...

Great! Now please add the voltage ratings too :b&w:

That's not a good idea. They will eventually leak again, giving even more problems in the future. By future I mean many years of course, but these are getting rarer and rarer thinking how easily the mobos break because of leakage... Use tantalum capacitors, please.. :( They can leak too I...

Uniserver, that SE need its monitor readjusted in width and height. It's supposed to be more wide than tall. The screen resolution is 512x342 after all! Height should be 4.7" (11.75cm) and width should be 7" (17.5cm) according to the service manual for SE and SE/30 by Apple themselves. Just...

What about hacking System 6 to run on a Quadra 700? Possible? We'd need to at least disable the MMU and 040 cache I think. Previous post:

Yes, this is because of the VGA adapter settings (or pinout if it doesn't have DIP switches). "VGA mode" is 640x480 60Hz and 800x600 56Hz.

I tried to reinstall the driver map (the thing before the main partition) on my SE/30's original HDD using Apple HD SC Setup, and somehow it failed. I tried to restart the system, but now I get a 0000000F 00000003 sad mac whenever it tries to boot from the HDD. My guess is that the driver/boot...

Hi ya'll, Lately the CRT on my SE/30 has been acting weird when it comes to the vertical deflection, after a lot of investigation and experimenting it turned out to be one of the old rotary resistor pots. They were full of dust, signs of tin whiskers and the metal on it had started to oxydize...

Yes, please do recap both the analog and digital board. And by that I mean *all* the electrolytic caps. If you don't have the caps you need, get them. And yes, System 7.5.x on a floppy boots extremely slow on a Classic (I've tried it before).

Replace the caps on the analog board as the guys in here are suggesting, it will do good. Don't rely on adjusting the voltage pot, the caps are getting worse and worse over time. Replace with the same micro farad rating, and same voltage rating (or higher). Low ESR and 105 degrees celcius...

Try to dismantle all of the socketed chips and clean the chip pins with isopropanol alcohol and reseat (make sure you put them back the same way as they were, having the little orientation notch in mind). Clean the RAM pins too, and maybe the RAM socket pins with an old toothbrush + alcohol...

My SE/30 motherboard came with a ROM that has the text "512kB" on it too. :O I'll run GetROM on it now and find out the checksum of the ROM. EDIT: Oh, it got dumped as a 256kB ROM. The ROM checksum is 0x97221136. A normal SE/30 ROM indeed.

I don't do NES remixes in particular, but I've been into Module Tracking for around 5-6 years, I do make some songs every now and then. I'm also the programmer of the "ProTracker rewrite" project (written in C and it's using SDL, portable).

This won't work on your Classic, which is ADB. ADB is a newer and different protocol used by the later (1986+) Macs. Macintosh/128k/Plus uses the old serial interface, AFAIK.

A single horizontal/vertical line is usually because of some dried up solder on the analog board, especially on one of the CRT connectors -- did you check for any dried/black looking/cracked solder points?

I'm using the 110v American version with a 100W 220v->110v step down converter. The gun takes exactly 95-100w IIRC, I was pretty lucky to have a 100W step down unit already.

The Hakko desoldering gun you linked is a master's item, it doesn't just work, it works brilliantly! I recommend it, even though the price is a bit stiff. :-/

:lol: The old hard drives are noisy indeed! But my Macintosh SE FDHD sports a 256MB CF card through a PCD-50B SCSI adapter, no audible hard drive noise. The fan is quite silent too, and there's no human-audible high-frequency sounds coming from the PSU nor the CRT. I changed the whining...

Check the startup resistors on the PSU -- desolder any melted/weird looking resistor and measure them. Also check for bad solder joints, especially on the coils. on't rely on in-circut measuring of components, it's never a good idea. Oh, and don't replace the PSU caps with mid/hi-ESR ones...