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The case finished printing. Currently Re-printing the rear case and added cooling vents/larger ports. Due to a modeling error on my part, the case now has white stripes. It uses two plastics when printing; A white plastic for building support structures while printing, and black/other colors for...

A to-scale would use a lot of plastic and it isn't that cheap. That, and the Pi doesn't need that much room to begin with. The most scaling I've done is for the length, as it would just be empty space. I've left enough room inside for cables and a tiny fan, as the little Samsung System-on-a-chip...

Update: Need to edit and re-print the rear cover, the holes for USB and ethernet are a bit too small, plus the ethernet port needs to be flush. :-/ I'd like to see if we can order some Navy blue and make a Zip-Drive sort of thing. :) Part 1 is easy. Finding a Mac TV, on the other...

I'm not sure. We've got a CNC cutter and machining station for metallic things, but our printer uses what's essentially a spool of weedeater thread.

Forgot to switch the plastic spools, so the entire thing is black now. The good news is that the rear cover is finished! The bad news is that I mixed up the files and now I have two of them.

Thanks, MinerAl!

So I can put my Pi inside of it without needing an actual floppy drive, and instead use my own enclosure.

Does anyone know of the L/W/H in centimeters? I'm 3D printing an enclosure for my Raspberry Pi and want it to look similar to this floppy drive. Thanks in advance!

This is my first conquest since, what, 4 years ago? Completely stock, 7.5.3 update excluded. No modem, but I wouldn't be able to use it anyways. A friend was planning on auctioning it at an estate sale, but knowing my hobby thought otherwise. Now, IIRC, the displays on these tend to fail...

I was a bit shocked when I saw it. Hardly anything good ever crops up here, let alone a complete IIGS!

http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/sys/3691247497.html I can't get to it, but if anyone nearby is looking for a IIGS in excellent condition, have at it.

Did the Classic originally contain screws securing the logic board to the metal chassis? I ask because mine is just sort of floating around in the metal slots. Thanks!

This listing has been popping up a few times from a University sale on my local Craigslist. Hopefully I'll be able to pay for it within a week or two, as I'm getting my first job in a few days. Anything I should know about these? I mostly plan on using it as a file server/LAN server for my...

Try reflowing J1 First, and if the problem persists, replace C1.

If a slap temporarily fixes it, then it's more likely that you've just got bad joints. Your friend should be able to reflow them. All you need to do is remove the analog board (mounted on the side of the Macintosh) and reflow the video/power connector at J4. It's at the center of the analog...

From past experience, I'd wager that you've got bad solder joints on C1, Or it needs to be replaced. Another possible problem is that the multicolored wire connector has a weak solder joint, in which case you simply need to reflow it with fresh solder/flux. You can test this by wiggling the...

Excellent find, Bunsen! I'll give this a try.

Whoa! That's an impressive mod! Way out of my ability, though. I try to keep my mods reversible, and that looks pretty darn permanent. I guess I'll start hunting for a monitor, then. My plan for this was fairy similar-a Macintosh Pi Music system with a few extra features provided by my aging...

This may sound like a vague question, but is there any way to use the composite output of a Raspberry Pi with a Macintosh Classic's CRT? I know the Classic uses TTL its display, so a custom analog board is going to be necessary. Is there any previous example of something like this being done...

Nevermind, I've solved it! Could a mod lock this, please?