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The reloaded SE/30 near completion

Yes please!

It's electronically the same and uses the same connector as the AGP G4s but will likely need a bespoke version of CircuitTalk from what I've seen. I'm also trying to figure out something elegant for the Pismo iMac G3 and iMac G4, which are similarly geometrically challenged. Figuring out...

I can only apologise for my loss of focus on this project and absence from this thread. I won't bore you all with the details so I will skip to the good news. CircuitTalk is returning! I have completely redesigned the main PCB so that it now has the flexibility to mount connectors for PowerMac...

Open up the case and show us what it's connected to on the inside, if anything. If it's not connected to anything then it could be some form of security tag, although it's strange that it's colour-matched to the G3.

I use the oddly-named MacMan MIDIMan with any Mac that lacks a USB port. It is driverless and works with all my 68K and PPC Macs. They are common, cheap, and easily acquired on ebay.

I'm based in the UK but I would be willing to do the soldering work and board repair for a reasonable price. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

I was going to start looking into the S900's issues more closely but, as is often the way with me, it has completely failed and will no longer do anything besides an extremely feeble quarter of a boot chime. Hopefully I can coax it back into life once I finally finish setting my workshop back...

I am so sorry for not replying in time! I am very glad that you were able to work it out. Enjoy your revitalised Quad.

Correct but it is not just a single pixel line that is obscured. You can also see the metal lower lip of the display (when putting a c screen into a cs chassis). I found it to be far too visually "off" to be happy with it so I just used the entire c display assembly on the cs body in the end.

The heatsink on this specific model of card is glued on. Be very careful. You will struggle to put the heatsink back on properly once you have removed it due to the use-once clips and the thick resin/glue used as thermal compound. Even if you get the heatsink off without wrecking the GPU die you...

Unfortunately Word 2001 could not help me with this.

I've owned about a dozen Quicksilvers so have done my fair share of troubleshooting and fiddling with them. These are my recommendations for you: Reseat your graphics card and any PCI cards if you haven't already. Check if your RAM sticks are all working properly by installing one at a time...

Bumping this as I think it got missed in the excitement! Are the issues with the S900 at all related or similar to the Gazelle's issues?

Great haul! One thing you can try to get dead Quicksilver PSUs running is heating them up with a hairdryer. Just blast some hot air into the exhaust for twenty seconds or so and you may find that the supply magically works again. The Delta brand units have bad caps that respond well to a little...

Sort of! Sadly that thread is about the battery from a different unit so the pinout may be different but it's good to know that there is a "trick" required to get the pack to wake up properly. Whether or not the net result of that is the same as installing the pack and powering the laptop is...

I feared as much. What a shame.

I have rebuilt the battery for my DLSD with new 18650 cells but sadly things are not going quite to plan. The current situation is that I have the battery fully reassembled, voltages are good, the operating system sees it as fully charged and healthy, but the machine will not actually run off...

It's still running fine after all this time, although CPU A tends to run a little hotter than CPU B. I'd like to try reapplying the thermal paste at some point soon to see if that balances things out. If nothing is leaking out then a reaction inside the loop must be creating the pockets of...

Dust is not the issue with these switches, it's the oxidation of the contacts inside. Buy some contact cleaner (I use the WD-40 brand but any non-conductive variety should do the trick), remove the caps from the dead switches, spray a generous amount of contact cleaner into the switch around...