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Hi all - I picked up a Mac Portable and recapped the main board and am having an issue -- a story as old as time itself! The Portable wakes from sleep just fine and will boot, but as soon as the Finder comes up, I ALWAYS get the "No battery reserve power remains...Good Night." and then it goes...

maybe you could find a 5200 or 5400 locally with a nice case and transplant? I dunno. shipping these things suck. :( as for the noise, could be the degausser when you power on. if your screen starts to shrink/expand and/or go light/dark, then you know its the flyback for sure.

I have a spare FPU board for the IIsi. If you end up buying one, PM me and you can have the FPU board for the cost of shipping, assuming you're in the U.S. it's re-capped and works great.

Yeah, I probably should have, but I trusted his word based on his feedback. This is the seller if anyone is familiar with him: https://www.ebay.com/sch/machp/m.html

that's cool. I wish more 68k games had that option. even wolf 3d runs pokey on a 40MHz LC040. but if it could be run at 320x240 pixel doubled or something...

never tried marathon on a 68k Mac, only PPC. now I'm curious! :)

This is quite the subjective question! Probably depends on what you want to do. Some of the stuff described in the OP is pretty light weight. Lots of good ideas above. Personally, I like the Quadra 630 line for the following reasons: 33MHz 040 (no FPU) that can easily be overclocked to 40MHz -...

Thanks all, I'll check out the links. I'm currently trying to match some "snow white" Macs so it looks like the NX-2 Grey might be close. The Solutech beige on Amazon looks good for an older Mac Plus. Awesome! Thanks!

Some time ago, someone posted a link to a source for PLA (or maybe it was ABS or PETG) filament for 3D printing that very closely matched the original platinum / beige color of older Macs. I should have bookmarked it when I saw it, but didn't. DOH! I've tried to find it, but cannot find the...

Thanks for the write-up! Recapping a bondi blue (rev a) tray loader now, and wow, there are a lot of screws and caps and boards!

While I have limited experience (fixing only 3 Color Classics) -- they all had leaky caps on the analog and main logic boards. I've always started the fix by recapping and it worked all 3 times. IIRC, the analog board is notorious for failing caps, so start there and see it goes.

Sure, you can have it for shipping. I'm in WA state and will happy ship it to ya.

I cleaned the socket with some deoxit and plugged the dual 1.25GHz CPU module in, hit the CUDA button, and pressed the power button and nothing. I then tried just holding the power button and a poof of white smoke came from under the heat sink. So I remove the CPU module and put my 867MHz back...

It looks like I can change the bus speed of the CPU module with a single resistor from 167 to 133. So I might try that first if the CUDA switch does nothing.

Thanks Byrd, I'll try it again tomorrow. If it still doesn't work, you think it's worth it to change the PLL resistors on the CPU module to a 9.5x multiplier (133MHz bus x 9.5 = 1267) which should be close to the speed of the CPUs? The modification looks pretty simple to do. The eBay seller...

Hi all - I have a PowerMac G4 MDD that is the dual firewire 400 model with dual 867MHz G4s on the CPU module. Just picked up a dual 1.25GHz CPU module off of eBay and plugged it in and nothing. Plugged the 867MHz module back in and all is good again. I opened up a return with the seller and he...

Thanks all. just some clarity, there was nothing loose inside the Cube (like a screw) and no condensation, so no obvious short. That's not to say something else isn't faulty and caused a short, but it since it does boot fine now, I'm going to assume a failed tantalum. I still wonder what that...

This is a stock 450MHz cube, so the VRM should not be overloaded. $200 for the Artmix VRM is crazy! That's more than the price of the Cube! Guess I'll try to find a lone, working OG VRM to replace this one. Bummer!

I picked up a G4 Cube and plugged it in and smoke started coming out of the top! No video on the screen, and the power light was flashing. I yanked the power and the smoke stopped. I pulled the core out of the case and on the back of the VRM, one of the tantalum (?) capacitors had blown clear...

It's been a long time, but IIRC, it was the replacement of 1 of those ICs that did fix my problem.