Search results

You should be able to try using a cheap voltage boost converter to get the necessary voltages for powering an ADC LCD. I think ADC runs off 28VDC, so you probably can just boost the 12V rail to make this work. Something like...

The prices seem to have increased for Power Supplies as well. I bought a new SE/30 PSU for all of $9 about three years ago --they are closer to 5x that price today. 😕 I guess that's the nature of eBay! I think that this flyback transformer definitely needs to be replaced. If you are interested...

Here is a copy of a forum thread I started a few months ago. @jeremywork had the tab open when the forum crashed and he was kind enough to rescue the HTML files and send them to me. Please note that none of my post's photographs were preserved in the download. If anyone would still like to see...

I also think that the issue you have described is indicative of a short. I would recommend systematically unplugging everything from the motherboard, seeing if the PSU turns on with only the motherboard connected, and then adding peripherals one by one. Once, I bought a faulty DVI to VGA adapter...

My first post on the post-crash forum software: Thank you for writing about your G5! This post was interesting to see. I'll have to take a look at my G5's CPU cards one of these days. I hope that the capacitors aren't all leaky yet, but I do love a good recapping project anyway. :) As @demik...

I think the idea of resin is to stop the irregularly-shaped logic board from wobbling around, or from being anything but perfectly level as the milling machine slowly removes each layer. Honestly, with every component removed from the board (thus making it flat), this may not be necessary. As...

What looks exciting to me is that you can use the Catalina Patcher on this model of iMac to install Mac OS Catalina. Big Sur might also be possible with a bit more work. In terms of maxing the computer out, I think you should opt for an SSD drive over anything else, even if its an $18 256GB...

The good news is that you can practice this procedure on a really cheap thrift store monitor before trying it on a nice Apple ADC one. I have considered trying to replace the CCFL backlight inside my iBook Clamshell with an LED one, but I am holding out until it becomes absolutely unusable, just...

Sugru probably won't work very well because it is still soft when it cures. I think you'd be better off filling the hole with epoxy and retapping the threads inside.

It looks to me like all of the capacitors on your accelerator are tantalum capacitors. They are probably still fine, as there is no fluid inside them. From what I have heard though, when tantalum capacitors do fail, it is usually spectacularly (in a puff of smoke). Maybe replacing them...

I think this motherboard looks like it is still in pretty good overall shape, especially considering the battery leaked. If you think it looks really bad, take a look at this picture of my Classic from a few years ago:   There do seem to be a few problematic spots on your motherboard that...

I think the link is broken, do you mind re-posting it?

See this thread:

Welcome to the 68kmla forum! Recapping the Analog board was definitely the right first step to take, and I think replacing these parts is the next logical thing to do. From what I've seen here over the last few years, these parts seem to be the most commonly failing ones. (After the...

I once got a filthy MacBook 1,1 to look almost brand new using a Magic Eraser. I know this is an iBook G4, but they're similar enough. I wiped the computer down with Windex and Isopropyl alcohol first, but a lot of the dirt refused to come off with these chemicals. I think the Magic Eraser's...

Adjusting the PSU voltage without recapping the PSU first is probably not a good idea. Part of why the voltage is not high enough is because the capacitors have already leaked. Driving the components of the PSU (which are already out of spec) even harder probably will just cause you a big...

Hello, It sounds like there might be quite a lot of battery damage on this board. Are you able to provide some high resolution photos of the entire logic board? These photos would help everyone here in terms of evaluating whether or not this logic board is too far gone to repair. These small...

I also read that adjusting the voltages can be really risky if done incorrectly. (It was something about a potentiometer labeled PP1 and the 5V and 12V rails going out of sync.)  I think replacing every obvious component first, and seeing where that gets you is probably a good idea. I just...

The Diodes and Optocoupler just happen to be parts that commonly fail. Replacements are cheap enough that it is probably worth swapping them all out with new ones, even if the existing components are still mostly working correctly. DP3 and DP4 are called 1N4148 Diodes. These make it so that...

This problem is what I was referring to before.