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The bottom screws are common 8/32, found at ANY hardware store.  You’ll have to get them in a Phillips head, as the T-15 is uncommon.

I bought my 512kE in 1997, and most of my troubles have been solder joints... .. There was the burnt up J1 connector, but I just removed it all together.. And as I stated in that piece, I changed the capacitor at C1. ...

I have to think back to the years I had a 7600, but I know Adaptec did make a OS 9 320, although I can’t remember the model.  I was going to save up for one that worked with OS 9. I ended up getting a blue & white, and a sonnet tempo 133, and bigger, cheaper HDs......... Edit.. upon...

Actually, the decoder is *needed* in OS 9, but OS 10 has a software decoder......

If you’re looking for speed, why not use a SCSI 320 card? The ATA on that PC is only ATA 33!!!

Price! CF is essentially ATA anyway..  There’s not any conversion going on to get from CF to ATA.   ... And CF is Ssssooooo damn expensive!!! Write cycles?  Ugh.. I’d go mSATA.They can come in cheap TLC or QLC types, but you can get them in eSLC or SLC Types that have a 100k write cycle life...

Why not do the simple thing? set up a bridge, and use it for the Quick silver, and anything else you want? They are so cheap. Once set up, it’s like having a external Wi-Fi card plugged in. ...

Or, use the entire ATA 100 speed by using a mSATA to 44 pin adapter, like I did..

If ya have a lot of computers you want to do it to, here a lot of 128GB mSATA drives...

eBay. The adapters are under $3.50 and the mSata SSD depends on on size and quality.  Bigger is more, pre-owned is cheaper..... I would also stay away from the TLC, and stick to the MLC. If I did it again, here’s what I’d get...

I looked at my options, and bought a 128GB mSATA drive, and ATA adapter, for a combined total + shipping = $22.38, and replaced the 80GB spinning platters in an A1103 1.5Ghz, 1GB, and now 120GB storage. I split the drive into 2 partitions an put OS 9 and 10 on there. I think I’ll take OS 10...

These are the ones that many of us are using. Very excellent.  https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECQ-E2395JB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF0%2BjlB8SXIRuf09bNNZbGIg%3D

Take your pick https://duckduckgo.com/?q=screen+scratch+remover&t=h_&iax=products&ia=products

Before I put it away, I thought I’d post a picture of my SCSI adapter with disk mode switch, for those that haven’t seen one.  Switch off, it allows for attaching a external disk. Switch on, it turn the PB into a SCSI disk, for backup / syncing with home / office computer.  The ones without a...

  @Iesca  Here’s the pictures of my toasted PSU, and my slapdash connection of the old PowerBook cable to the new IBM PSU.  Essentially, Red and Orange to +16V,  and Blue, Black and Shield, to Ground. 

I had the same problem. One day it worked, and the next, it didn’t.  Once I pried open the case and unsoldered the shield, I saw too much black carbon to deal with. And it was too densely packed for me at the time.  I replaced it with one of these...

some of the joints I had on my 512kE These are VERY bad. Make sure to use a very hot solder iron, to get a good flow and don't dwell on the joint too long, or you'll lift the trace, and use some good flux

We’ve all had this problem.  It’s cold solder joints on the analog board.  Open up the computer, take off the white shield (those black plastic push rivets come apart, and can be reused), and start soldering.  This is one of the simpler fixes, as there’s not a whole lot of taking apart, but...

You are correct in calling it a “anode cap”.  It is not a suction cup. It’s there to keep the 10,000 volts in. 

The 512kE is my room clock, and I have files with my passwords on it.. I also use the SE/30 for midi. The G3 as a tech bridge. I have never owned a new computer, and just don’t have the need for one, and don’t want to “chase technology”. i don’t play games, or do HD A/V processing.  I have...