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How do you power cycle it ? If you have a working battery this shouldn't be necessary as when you remove all power, the capacitors drain quickly and then the PMU is automatically reset in a matter of seconds. You have a rebuild battery I assume ? What sad mac code do you get ? I use my Mac...

Are the 2x small SMD capacitors near the switches soldered well: test them and check for lifted traces as well. Otherwise check the circuit from the switch to the next component for broken traces. Anyway it's not really a big deal that the programmer switch doesn't work as you don't need them...

The PB100 can boot without problem from it's internal HDD, no working battery is needed. I guess nobody has a working battery for a PB100 anymore. Of course the original Connor 20/40MB HDD is notorious for stiction of the heads so that needs to be repaired if you want the drive to work again...

The purple dots in the LCD as called "LCD rot": it's not repairable and a good PB100 screen is sort of hard to find. Anyway you know what you are looking for as the purple dots are always visable even when the laptop is turned off. Originally the screen definately did not have tantalum...

Do you have a spare analog or logic board for a Mac Plus ? This will be easier to throubleshoot the issue. As for now it can be a lot of things going from the wire harnass between logic and analog board, faulty flyback, voltages out of specs, bad deflection yoke, faulty resistor, diode...

These switches often go bad. Replace it: anyone from another Mac Portable or Compact Mac will do as they are identical. I don't know if new switches like these are still for sale.

First start with recapping the logic board, LCD panel, invertor board. All the caps are gone. When the original Connor hard drive still spins up and you hear a low-volume tick tick sound then it's probably still repairable. The heads are stuck in the parked position against a rubber degraded...

Recap the logic board for start. All SE/30 logic boards need to be recapped even if the capacitors still look good, believe me they are not. Also keep in mind that the SE/30 doesn't have a strong PSU so the drives you are connecting may be out of specs for the PSU and drawing too much power...

That was my point: the capacitor looks shorted. Given it's age, low capacitance and being electrolytic, it should at least read several Ohms.

Have you tested for continuity as 0.07 Ohm is very low for such a low capacity capacitor ? Given the age, one would expect much higher readings, so the capacitor can be shorted. Given the age of the original C1 capacitor and because it's an electrolyte one, it's better to replace it just to...

So another repair project for next winter I suppose. Repairing the adapter won't the problem but keeping the housing intact so it can be glued back together will be very challenging. I was hoping someone had already done it successfully and could share some tips.

Try removing the battery and internal memory card. I guess you already know that the Duo logic board is also suffering from leaky capacitors but give my other suggestion a trial first. Pram resets won't help as both the Pram batteries as the main one are dead unless you have replaced/recelled...

Who already recapped their pb500 charger ? Mine is giving a heavy smell of capacitor fluid when it's used so time to recap. Anyone with tips how to open the housing with the least possible damage so it can be glued back together ? Why on earth didn't Apple put any screws in most of their...

What does it give with the logic board disconnected ? If it's the same then the issue is on the analog or video board, otherwise it's a logic board problem.

I used a small saw to open the adapter. Anyway, the enclosure can't be used afterwards. There's quite a bit of electronics inside for a regulated PSU. I also notice that all my PB100 adapters are going away from specs, that is giving too much voltage. Most of them give about 7.8 to 7.9 volts...

I have a screen saver for a Mac 128K, well sort of as you have to start it manually. It doesn't run in the background as it would consume too much memory. It's a floating digital clock.

The original HDD for a Classic II is a 40MB or 80MB drive from IBM/Connor/Quantum.

You have to remove the metal frame first. The metal frame is held on the LCD panel with 1 screw on the front and metal clips around the panel that hook into the backpanel of the LCD. Have a look at the sides of the frame and you'll see what I mean. You have to straighten the metal clips/hooks...

The Classic I/II Analog boards are notorious for bad capacitors. Even though they are the last model of the B&W compact macs, the capacitors are of poor quality. They were cheaper than the SE series for a reason I suppose. Anyway you should be able to test this quite easily. Monitor the +5...

No-name brand capacitors are no good. Using electrolyte or tantalum one's for recapping is a personal choice, however when they fall off there's no doubt that the job is not well done. I suggest you immediately stop using the board and send it to someone to recap properly ( like Uniserver )...