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I've been recapping my Q605, some of the pads are in rough shape but I was still able to probe the connections easily. Here's the list I came up with: C35:   47 µF   (+): +5V           (-): GND C36 :  47 µF   (+): +5V           (-): GND C101: 47 µF   (+): 12V           (-): GND C105: 47 µF  ...

I think the best solution is to connect the HD to a newer Mac (like a G3), make a Disk Copy image of it, and then move that to reliable storage (backup drive, online backup, etc) You also should be able to do this from a PC (using dd from Linux), but you would need a PC with an (old) SCSI card...

I was able to disable Password Security using Norton Disk Editor (as described at securemac: https://www.securemac.com/powerbooksecurity.php).I took some pictures, I'll write it up when I have a chance. I didn't open the display up yet, but I'm pretty sure it'll be this unobtainium IBM panel...

Good call on the IBM connection, I thought of that earlier but forgot about it. ThinkWiki lists only one 10.4" 800x600 display, the Hitachi TX26D31VC1CAA.  However, I found a Japanese page showing a 2400c panel replacement from an IBM part, unfortunately I believe that ThinkPad (the 535) was...

I took a flyer last week on a PowerBook 2400c on Craigslist, no adapter and untested. Good news: it boots! Bad news: screen is totally cracked and wrecked  :'(   only the lower left corner displays anything correctly. I hooked it up to an external monitor and booted it, the hard disk has the...

I picked up a Color Classic off eBay last week, had to bypass a via and now it boots! The picture doesn't look very good though, just isn't that sharp and there's some serious pincushion distortion: As usual that picture looks worse than real life (that line across the middle and the rainbow...

I just got a Color Classic which had the same problem--could hear a PSU noise when turning on the hard power, but no response to the keyboard power button. The caps actually don't look that bad (much better than my SE/30 in original condition) but I started looking at the vias around the...

After tracing more signals (and not finding anything out of order), I think the problem is a dodgy connection at the CPU or maybe ROM SIMM. The last time it didn't work, I gave the CPU and ROM a good push and it started working. I have a socketed CPU and I've never pulled it out, if the problem...

Tried the extra wire for RESET, still no change. RESET is at 4.82V when the system is on. I also disconnected Q3 again, still no change. The SENSE pin to the sound chips is also +5V like it should be. Thanks for your help techknight, do you have any suggestions to try next?

I tried disconnecting RESET from UB11 and wired UB10s RESET line to the hole instead, still shows at 5V but no change. I'm starting to think maybe there's a problem with the trace carrying reset to the sound chip, I'll try a separate wire for it

Hmm how would I check that? I can use a scope and try to see how long it takes to rise vs. +5V. Would the machine boot without UB11 installed at all? I see RP7 pulls it up to 5V, is UB11 actually driving it high as well? I don't have any other sound chips to swap in there, but I could wire...

It's just a 2N3904 wired to (what I'm pretty sure are) the right places. It's never booted with that installed, but it's failed to boot many times without it as well. I did the same thing last night after it booted--hooked up Q3, saw it didn't boot, disconnected Q3, and it still wouldn't boot...

I pulled out UB11, cleaned it and the board off, put it in a socket and back on the board. Still wouldn't boot  :( But after a few more power cycles, I got it to boot again! Then went to wire Q3 on, and stripes again  :( And most of the time I get stripes, RESET* is at 5V. As long as...

This zip file has the Apple and BOMARC schematics in it. Apple schematic is more accurate/easier to read, but BOMARC is sometimes useful to look at.

Yep, UB11 connects to the reset line. Both UB10 and UB11 on my board have some corrosion on the legs, I'll pull them out and re-solder (or put in a socket if I can find one)

Spent today trying to get my SE/30 working, and I did get it to boot once!! It's always had the classic horizontal stripes SimasiMac, without any chimes. I replaced all the caps, without any luck. I was poking at signals today and found that the reset switch is bad--it was around 500 ohms...