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Couldn't tell you what the connector itself is called, but I have seen the exact same thing on Epson receipt printers: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Epson-TM-H6000III-TM-H6000IV-TM-U220P-M235A-24v-Power-Supply-Adapter/254482520289 Mind, the pinout between this scaler and the Epson printer is...

Here's the thing: We already have that implemented in the II Compact board since there are some Macs out there with soft power circuits that have failed. It's an optional part of the board and we won't be shipping wire or a switch to use it, but the option is there with a dedicated header for it...

It’s a 2/5, not the later 2/10 or Mac XL. My screen is okay and pretty stable, though I need to re-recap the PSU with caps rated for a higher ripple current. You should pull the analog board out of yours and recap it, as well as reflow all the joints and shoot deoxit into the trimmer pots.

Anyone ever tried sticking in another pin header into the unpopulated pads on an LC II board? Just curious to know if the second floppy port is electrically connected at all. 

Finally got a system I've been wanting for years... Much thanks to the Vintage Mac Museum for this.

Never mind - Misread

I was wrong - I'm using https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UVY1E222MHD in my analog board. I'll try yours after a while, unfortunately I ran out of solder wick and who knows how long it'll take for Amazon and the shops to open back up?

I believe I used https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UBT1C222MHD1TN in my Lisa's analog board.

Yes, that is indeed the exact same thing I'm seeing on mine - where lines on the screen aren't perfectly aligned with each other and they "ripple" but go through periods of staying completely still and moving.

Nah, it's a mouse-like device - the thing in the middle is permanently attached to the device and you moving it around is how you move the cursor. There's nothing touchpad like about it (except that it's awful).

Yep, I have the later Felix that LGR reviewed. It's weird, it feels really imprecise and worst of all, at least by that point, it's super cheap and plasticky. I can't speak for the original like you have there, but the second version I wouldn't pay more than $5 shipped for. Both are probably...

I'm curious now - I just picked up a Lisa 2/5 and after recapping the analog board and power supply, what you're describing here sounds eerily similar to what I'm seeing. I took a video of mine; is yours doing the same thing? I was playing with it for a few hours last night and I did notice it...

Hey all, I did a near complete recap of my 512ke's analog board, part number 630-0102. The only capacitor I did not replace was C1 - 50v, 3.3uf. While I have a brand-new replacement 50v 3.3uf cap in my parts order, it's a tiny 5mm radial instead of something much beefier like the 18mm original...

Seems like it's not an EMP blast, I think... An 800k external and a Floppy Emu was able to successfully boot my 512ke. However, I did notice that the Floppy Emu was resetting a lot when the 512ke was trying to boot. Perhaps I have power supply issues? I did just do a recap on the analog board so...

Have you thought about using a normal PDU cable and then using something like this on the other end? PDU to Outlet

I've got a couple disk drives coming from the VMM as well as a Floppy Emu just to see if it's not an EMP blast.

As long as I keep the disk away from my 512ke while it's warming up, yep!

Just a little weird something I’ve noticed with my 512ke ever since swapping out the original 800k with a replacement 800k...   If I have my 512ke turned off and I insert a disk, then turn it on my boot disk ends up corrupted at the best and completely erased at the worst. I guess the solution...

Pull your logic board and find out; the RAM is in F/G 5-12 on the board, just below the 68000. It looks like the 512k uses 4256 DRAM ICs (which is a 256Kx1 chip) with 15ns refresh. Couldn't tell you if a faster part will work with slower parts, but you don't want to put a slower part in place of...

https://udcf.gla.ac.uk/~gwm1h/Error_Codes/Sad_Mac_Codes.html I'd hazard a guess that the error code is 020004. DRAM ICs are pretty cheap on eBay so I'd pick up a bunch as well as some sockets and start swapping things out.