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Yep, it could be an issue.
If I recall correctly, while digging AliExpress, I saw few buck modules that convert +12V into -12V and -5V, but I should find it again as I don't remember how it was called.
As far as I remember, the LC uses -5V for sound, but I don't remember the -5V rail in 10 pins computers like IIci, IIsi and Q700, these just want -12V as negative current.
As modern power supplies still have the -12V rail, you can restore the -5V rail by doing a thing like this with an LM7905...
Thank you for these tips, I really appreciate them.
Unfortunately I never used a 3D printed, nor I have access to one, that's why because I wanted to stuff the entire computer (maybe ditching the floppy drive, the keyboard and the trackpad) into a clear utility briefcase, but you know, I might...
Thank you a lot for your precious replies.
Oh, so, there's another polarizer filter on the back? Sounds like I'll give up on it lol
I stored the screen in summer 2022 and never completed the job due to health issues I had at the time, it's half scraped and meanwhile the plastic lid got worse...
Did someone discovered what's the correct angle for this screen?
The plastic casing is completely destroyed now because of age, but I would like a lot to stuff this powerbook in a clear plastic suitcase to use it as a sort of "portable" desktop Mac.
Thank you.
I soldered back the original A3X and now the hole disappeared, I think that the plastic melted during the soldering process or something like that.
Well, mystery solved.
Well, I must say sorry to everybody for wasting your time and, at the same time, I want to say thanks for helping me anyway.
I must say that I found this "journey" really funny and, as always, it was useful as every other experience.
Diode D3 is fine, I've continuity between termination power...
Replaced the A3X with two 1N4148 just to see if something would change but no luck, the problem stays, the BlueSCSI works only with molex power.
However, it works like before.
Thank you again for you precious help.
The only problem now is that I need to pay 20€ only for shipping an A3X / MMBD2835LT1G / SMMBD2835LT1G here in Italy, because of this I'm looking for an equivalent component.
A similar component that I can easily buy is the BAR43A, which has a forward...
Thank you a lot, I took better photos of D1 and yes, I misread the first value, it's an A3X indeed, I suspected that H was a date code.
A3X seems to correspond to MMBD2835LT1G / SMMBD2835LT1G, the only problem is that I can't find this component on sale, I'll do a better research.
I'm also...
Hi everybody
This summer I broke the diode D1 on my first gen Macintosh LC while testing some prototype boards, since then I need power from the molex plug in order to fire up my BlueSCSI internally, while a BlueSCSI attached to the external port works fine with termination power.
I already...
Hi everybody!
As I went crazy the other night, I want to share this fix in case your Digital Audio port is destroyed and your internal speaker isn't working.
I applied this fix on my second Quicksilver, a G4/800 2002 version that I bought back in 2017: the previous owner destroyed the Digital...
Hi everybody.
My hateful PowerBook 145B developed the infamous vinegar syndrome and I'm in the process of removing the second sticky sheet of the polarizer.
Right now I trashed everything into a box due to my poor spare time and to the strong smell of the polarizer that was literally killing me...
I used RaSCSI with my Macs with a Pi 3 and Zero W, every time with a direct wiring, but honestly it doesn't work so good.
My Macs and their SCSI controllers are still alive.
Hi everybody!
I'm restoring a bunch of Apple Desktop Bus mice that I found in my house, I'm also recapping them and I did a capacitors list.
1x 10uF 16V
1x 1uF 50V
1x 0,47uf 50V
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