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Did you clean the board after decapping? I normally clean the pads and all around where the capacitors go after I've removed the old ones and before I put the new ones on. It helps remove anything that might be an issue. Some photos would be good.
I'm not sure that's an issue on things newer than the Plus, but you should really recap the Classic analog board, as they are pretty likely to develop problems if they don't already have them.
My color classic had the bezel snapped in two places when it arrived, but thankfully the electronics were intact. I was able to piece it back together with ABS cement, and it's been like that for probably 2 or three years now. I still haven't replaced the bezel even though it's a mess. It's a...
Yep, those are max bandwidth numbers. You might try to see if you can find a schematic. I would also recommend building something like a 555 astable circuit to check the scope with!
The clock pin should have a 1.023 MHz square wave on it, and the reset line should stay low for around a second after the switch is turned on, and then go high.
It works to an extent, but it doesn't do anything for clients that don't support SMTP authentication, which most vintage clients don't. Also, stunnel doesn't work well for things like Gmail which require OAUTH2 authentication, instead of just putting in a password. It might be possible to set...
Drag soldering works pretty darn well actually, the trick just seems to be LOTS of flux. I managed to drag solder 2 TQFP-100 ATMEGA640 chips on a board I designed. Worked fine. Having the right kind of soldering tip helps a lot too.
That jumper appears to wire two primaries together in parallel for 120v operation. I THINK that jumper should be able to be modified to put the primaries in series, which should output the correct voltage.
I bet that transformer's primary can be reconfigured to run on 230 volts. I would take some pictures of that. I *might* be able to tell you how to change it.
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