Search results

Cool, this is hard-core! I'm curious what it does without the videoram. The SE/30 is a bit weird in the sense that it outputs video from the VRAM to the screen as soon as power is applied right? I think its still a bit odd that it gives you a chime of death after the recap, or is that because...

On my both 220 boards, there is a big filter cap there, nice to know there can also be a jumper there. BTW, note that jumper JP1 is between the two filter cap spots, but might be completely covered in a dab of hot glue, as in my case!

My stock Performa 460 (LCIII) does that when I boot it without a PRAM battery. Like it resets the PRAM then reboots the machine.

That idea makes sense, I agree. Spent the last days cleaning the pads for the caps, Ordered some solder wick and some new caps. When I have de-soldered the rusty parts I'm going to dish-wash the board to get the goo out under the chips. Then we'll see what it does ^^ I'll let you know of course.

Not to be the annoying little kid Uni, but any reason in particular that I might not be able to get it to work? The Classic is well known for checker-boarding with bad caps. There is not rust build op whatsoever. Apart from the RTC circuit nothing is really damaged, at least nothing that...

It did hit the board but not a lot! The parts that were most hit is the Audio jack, the Real Time Clock circuit and the sound chip. funny enough, the reason this board was checker-boarding is most likely because of bad caps, not because of the battery leakage. One of the serial ports is also...

And after a little bit of sanding and buffing: IMAG0177.jpg IMAG0183.jpg Then it is coated with Zink-spray. That is drying as we speak.

So, chances are, when you buy a compact mac, the red little devils did go kaboom. IMAG0172.jpg[/attachment] Now that's an amazing improvement, isn't it? Little bit of more cleaning: IMAG0180.jpg[/attachment]

Well, mine shows on the protector cardboard that it only has or does not have a jumper in place. That switches the voltage.

Its really a 68 Ohm speaker, I tested a good one from my Classic I :D

I was given the 4400 for free a while back. The previous owner said it was being used as an ISDN-Server at his work. Now I tested and completely cleaned the 4400 when I got it, but I was very busy around that time, so I put it back together and never really got to use it. I assumed the card in...

Check the voltages on the external floppy connector. Also, try to gently slap the left side of the mac when you are sitting in front of it, tiny broken solder joints in the connector going to the logic board might cause that issue I believe. A re-solder/re-flow of any connections in the area of...

Yeah that really is your typical Maxell PRAM Battery explosion, Most of the red ones tend to go out with a bang... The board already is much cleaner than it was, which is good. If you'll get the ROM working, you have quite a bigger change of getting things up and running. Fingers crossed that...

I would start by cleaning EVERYTHING with alcohol and Q-tips, the traces can be repaired, the fallen off chip can be soldered back if you have it and the pads are okay... but I'm very worried about the condition of the ROM SIMM, lots of corrosion there, i would pop that out first and see if that...

Holy cow that is amazing. Looks like I'm gonna have to keep an eye out for such a card within a reasonable price range. The amount of recent successful DIY projects/hacks/mods is amazing.

That's correct! The Black "Veidt" SE/30 out of Watchmen I believe. Although I don't really like the pure black color on a mac. I also think the complexity of the SE and SE/30 models (the snow white vents in the front) look better in white. While the classic with its single groove and simpler...

Oh wow... is that the standard compact mac resolution on the internal 9"?

For some reason, while reading this topic, a PB coloured mac classic came to my mind: I have to say, I really like it for some reason.

In case you used flux, make sure to clean it up since it conducts electricity quite well and can cause all kinds of trouble! It is also always a good idea to test for 0 Ohm continuity between the cap and the board with a multimeter, that way you can also spot any shorts. And before recapping...

It's just weird. It's actually the WR● line coming from pin 4 of UH7 to pin 2 of the SWIM... the issue is that my multimeter gives close to 0 ohms... Yet it just doesn't want to work without a direct lead between the two pins, or the scope between any of the above pins and ground... Grounding...