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Okay, I got some of those boards today! There are some issues as expected, but I've already fixed all of them in a newer design (V2R2).  Other than using a bunch of recycled parts ripped off of other stuff, here's something a lot closer to the idea I had in my head. You might notice a few...

That's always an option one could do. I'm a big fan of pretty all-in-one designs however there's nothing stopping you from doing that with an unassembled/partially assembled board. That's the beauty of kit-type things, you can do pretty much whatever you want. Desolder the connector from the Mac...

That I have. The creator is active over on Vogons and has a thread about it. It's quite a bit more complicated but that also means quite a bit more cost. As-is, we're looking at parts cost of ~$7.26 in components (if you do singles and buy resistors/LEDs in singles off Mouser). If I straight up...

Tallest would be the Molex connector, followed by the LEDs followed by the inverter, particularly if socketed. Could always go for minimum height by using 3mm LEDs (or no LEDs - they're just diag things) and just soldering the inverter to the board (no real reason to socket tbh).  If wiring is...

Good news: I've got some of the boards heading my way. I've got a PCB mount connector rather than lopping the 10 pin off the factory PSU. I'll still be using scavenged parts but it'll be a nicer representation of the original idea. Both yes and no. The boards themselves are quite small and...

I'm lucky that mine came with iirc 6 sets of drive brackets. If there's anyone interested in making a 3D model of 'em, I'd happily get some measurements and/or loan a set out. 

Right about 70mm x 48mm 

Bugs in order of importance:  1.) The 7404 was connected to 5V and not 5VSB. Does not work as-is, needed a rework wire to connect it to 5VSB. 2.) The 10 pin connector is on the wrong side to correctly fit into a IIsi when using a soldered-to-board connector, instead you'd have to use something...

To be honest the main design goal isn't so much for the extreme 3 Radius Rockets + Thunder IV GX 1600 extra power consumption boxes but more for the regular 'old systems. Think a IIci with a random nubus video card and maybe ethernet. You can get picoatx PSUs with 8-10A 5V rails which'll cover...

So this one isn't quite as straight forward as the Mac II stuff is. It's mainly down to the requirement for the -12V rail and cabling to go from whatever is designed to the analog board. The first idea is to do something similar to the Artmix design and use an industrial PSU with custom cabling...

Just curious, does anyone know just how much current is being drawn on the -12V rail of the Mac SE (or SE/30)? The original PSU is rated 0.5A which is not a lot, whereas something like a picoatx is 0.1A generally. I can probably measure this on my own using a Mac SE but I don't have an SE/30 at...

Nope, it's an actual PCB with an inverter for the /pfw line included on the board. A bit prettier than cable splicing and soft power will still be retained, rather than being hard on or off. You can buy the Molex connectors Apple used in a solderable package meaning assembly isn't too difficult...

Personally I'd buy probably 50 10v 47uf, and 10 16v 10uf caps. They're common values found in just about every Mac of the era and they all need work. In the past I've used:  https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/581-TAJC476K016SNJ and  https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/F931C106MAA The...

You'll be able to get by fine without rewrapping 'em in heatshrink. I've never done it myself and never had issues, taking note from pretty much every PSU manufacturer out there who also didn't wrap 'em in heatshrink.

Old school setup for hooking ti a projector generally. To the best of my knowledge there aren't any monitors that'll sync - more or less just late 80s/early 90s projectors (the suitcase sized ones).

Something worth noting is some later ones require a 20A cord and as such have 3 horizontal pins rather than 3 vertical pins. It's still a standard connector but somewhat less common for a home user.

Don't trust it. Capacitors are cheap and can fail short and/or go pop when they fail, spewing corrosive goo all over the board. In general capacitors tend to work a little better once warmed up a bit which is probably why it's seemingly working now. Let it sit a few days and it'll be back to before.

While not quit replacing the Rayovac bricks, these're "in the spirit" so to say. I've been playing with replacing the 1/2AA batteries with CR2032s in systems as a means of cutting costs. I can get a holder for ~$0.75 and a battery for $~0.40 in bulk, a lot cheaper than a $3-$5 battery. Even if...

PCP24xk is the PrecisionColor Pro 24xk with QuickColor. I didn't get a full run of it on the IIfx though, for some reason it'd get part way through and Type 1 error on me. Doesn't do it with any of the other video cards. It's the one card that showed the greatest improvement in PowerPC vs 68k...