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When you're sure it works I'll buy one, BBraun can help you with the driver: http://www.synack.net/~bbraun/

https://www.macintoshrepository.org/268-machten-4

I bought one of these to try just that but I never got around to it:

Does anyone have a Supermac Superview SCSI? I need a copy of the drivers. Can anyone help me? All I can find is the drivers for the MAC SE Superview.

Have you tried a video card with the 601?  Since you get a chime it sounds to me like the onboard video might not be ppc compatible.

Neat, yeah, it could also be bad cpu's that's why I suggest a load test with a head gun on low.

I think somebody actually made one, you can search the forum.

Honestly? Not that bad, classic 1 boards are the only boards I've ever been able to fully resurrect. You need to disorder the battery holder and clean the junk. The other part of this, is that almost every Classic 1 has the Maxell Bomb. It seems that 1991 was the worst year for leaking Maxell...

It says "miniphone", that is a mini-phone connector. Looks like pins 1 and 2 should be connected when headphones are not plugged in. If 2 and 3 are connected, then you're shorting you audio out to ground.

I've never seen a bad sound chip on a se, but I suppose it is possible that the speaker could short and take it out. A schematic for the sound portion of the SE board has not been released to the community as far as I know, here is the plus schematic:

Based on these symptoms I'd suggest swapping the ram. and also, be sure to properly configure the SE board using the resistors or the jumper. http://lowendmac.com/2016/memory-upgrades-mac-se/

Yes, I can, although the dimensions of my "magic clip" have to be changed sometimes due to variations in the original socket between manufacturers. 

Here it is, a picture is worth a thousand words, I have managed to dream up a little clip that will go over the rom simm and over the broken socket like a collar. I have already repaired a couple of logic boards with these clips.

I have a 3d printed solution, I'll post about it here later today.

The easiest way is to cut the problem in half, meaning, try another logic board. This is easy for me since I have 40 computers in my collection. In your case, you can buy another logic board, buy a classic I, or ask a member to test your board.

It probably is a faulty logic board, if the display section of the analog were not working you'd probably at least get a chime as long as the voltages look good. Something to consider, is that some of the pads for these caps also serve to interconnect two vias or other components. I might...

1. I can't say I've ever seen a broken connection there at the flyback anode, it is a fairly thin wire though, I'd give it a gentle tug and make sure it's attached. 2. If you have an o-scope you can check the pwm signal from the logic board. 3. If you are able to give an up close picture of...

As long as you did a good recap with quality parts and correct polarity, I suspect your logic board is at fault. More than likely electrolyte is still on the board and scrambling the PWM brightness signal to the analog board. When I started this hobby in 2014 I acquired 2 computers, a Mac Plus...

Yes and also they all should, there are other uses for that port.

Neat!