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I agree completely. Also I know that some brands are more prone to leakage, such as dreaded ELNAs, but I have yet to see a Nichicon to leak. But anything is possible, I also had a new Sanyo cap a few years ago that just bulged after few seconds. A month ago I got an old tube radio from 1949...

I used the vise method and it worked. I was able to get it open without any visible marks :) The brick is now repaired, as the only problem was the input filter choke that had detached and was shaking inside. I resoldered it and now it works a treat. Also, there are only two electrolytics...

I replaced the items marked in boxes, so total of four capacitors. I hope that the diagram is clear enough. 2x 100 uF 25V at C24 and C28 1x 47 uF 25V at C31 1x 33 uF 25V SMD at the vertical PC board That's it, about two hours worth of work.

I recently did a repair of Duo Dock which had the "click of death", as it made clicking noises when plugged in. The main culprit is the PSU, where few electrolytic caps dry up or leak, and the PSU won't start. The PSU is riveted together, so you must drill out the rivets to gain access...

A friend got me a dead Duo Power Brick, it is completly dead and something shakes inside. Model: M7783 So I want to get it open, but with as least damage as possible. Like something as I did with the PB 170 PSU last week. Perhaps anyone already done that?

I figured out, how this cap was oriented, when I turned the computer on and measured the voltage on the cap's pads, and found out where is positive and negative. Sadly the sound still doesn't work, even after resoldering the audio IC and some nearby components. I believe that the sound IC must...

In the middle of the Europe :)

Does anybody has the close-up picture of the Quadra 660AV board near the CD-ROM audio connector and the Audio IC? I somehow managed to knock one SMD tantalum cap, while I was removing the sound IC...

No one? One is marked as p0402, other one is 7EPJ8. The mystery remains...

No, the replacement was one of the easiest repairs I've done in years, as I only heated the chip and lifted it with tweezers. Then I cleaned the pads on the board and on the new (old) chip with flux and some new solder, then I put the chip in place. I then heated it again until the solder...

I actually put the two machines in the same state, removed all of the RAM, ROMs and Cache modules and floppy drives and turned them both on. The AV one CPU didn't get warm. Swapping the PSUs did nothing. Actually the PDS slot is empty in the both machines, but that doesn't stop the 66 one to...

I tried the vise method and it worked. Then I proceeded with inspection. As expected, there were 4 badly leaking ELNA capacitors, so I replaced them all. Here is the list, if someone wants to order capacitors before opening the brick: 16V 1200 micro F 16V 180 micro F 16V 82 micro F 50V 47...

Yup, I didn't see the video at all, just a blank space. Ferrix97, thanks, I can now see that this could be done without much effort :) I'll try to open it and post the results

Thanks. I will probably use dremel to cut the case open at the weld. Or perhaps a hot knife would also do... Are there any pictures of this opening process using bench vise?

Thanks! I am still thinking about the reasons it died. This LC II has a TDK PSU that was in working state when I got it, so after I recapped the logic board, I powered on using this PSU. Then I inserted the network card an the sound died. Later I opened the PSU and found leaking caps, so...

I got an old PowerBook 170 AC adapter for repair. Model: M5140 (APS-20U). It is completely dead and I can see some very light plastic deformation from heat in the top right side, so it must have been working hot for some time before it died. At first I hoped that it is screwed together, but...

Well it depends how faint sound is. I used powered speakers from my LCD and I couldn't hear a thing even if I maxed them out. I only heard a very faint sound if I held the internal speaker close to my ear. Usually when caps go bad, the sound is faint, but not that much. I only rememberer that on...

I received the hot-air soldering station today and replaced the UB10 chip (part 344S033-A) with one from LC III. Now sound works correctly, so it was the chip failure. Also at first, I tried resoldering the old chip, and but it didn't help.

I know about the differences between the Cache DIMM and the ROM DIMM. The ROM DIMM has the Apple 341-0741 PN, cache does not, also the cache has 8 chips on DIMM, the ROM has only 4. So I know which is which :) Yes, I changed both modules, also tried booting without Cache and with ROM in...

Thanks. Yes, I will probably take the ROM from BeacyCove. Now a question, is the ROM for 6100/66 any different from 6100/60AV? In that pile of old Macs we found working 6100/66 and I took it for testing purposes. I found out that 6100/66 boots and works, but the other one, a 6100/66AV model...